Hanfu is ancient traditional clothing in my country. With the popularity of Hanfu in recent years, some people have the habit of wearing Hanfu. But there are rules for Hanfu. Due to the influence of costume dramas, we have many misunderstandings about Hanfu. Especially some people who don’t understand Hanfu regard costume drama costumes as Hanfu. Some characters in costume dramas even wear the wrong Hanfu. So what are the main signs that distinguish Hanfu?
Nowadays, as an important symbol of Hanfu, colleagues who study or promote Hanfu regard "clothes lapel to the right", also known as "right lapel", as one of the important symbols to distinguish Hanfu from nomadic clothing. Why is "Youren" Hanfu?
"Book of Rites·Mourning Notes": "The small ones are large and the sacrificial robes do not fall over. They are all left gusseted, and the knots are not knotted." Kong Yingda of the Tang Dynasty once commented on this ancient sentence: "The ones with 'all left gusts' are large and small." The same goes for gathering, so it goes like this. The gusset is the lapel of clothes. When you are born on the right side, your left hand will untie the belt for defecation. After death, the lapel will be on the left side, indicating that it cannot be untied. Those who are 'knotted and not tied' have both belts when they are alive. Qu Niu makes it easy to extract."
It can be seen that the right fold is convenient for the right hand, while the left fold is the clothing of the dead. Therefore, historically, it was believed that "right-winged collar" represented advanced people, while backward nationalities used left-legged collar.
Historically, the civilization of the Central Plains has always rejected Zuo Jin. Although Hanfu was temporarily discontinued after the emergence of the Qing Dynasty, the civilization of Hanfu was not discontinued. There have been attempts to revive Hanfu, but they were unsuccessful due to various reasons. With the rise of Hanfu craze, some people who don't understand Hanfu accidentally "leaf" when wearing Hanfu, and are sometimes laughed at. This was taboo in ancient times. It is not only an insult, but also represents a great disrespect, because only the dead can "Zuo Ren", or backward aliens can "Zuo Ren".
Historically, the civilization of the Central Plains has always rejected Zuo Fan. Regarding Zuo Fan and Right Fan, "Historical Records" records a saying of Confucius: "If Guan Zhong is small, I will be sent to Zuo Fan." This sentence means: If there is no Guan Zhong, To assist Duke Huan of Qi and curb the invasion of the Yi people, one has to wear the left-hand trousers of the foreign people, without clothes and with disheveled hair.
There is a sentence in the "Book of Han" written by Yan Shi of the Tang Dynasty: "The right gusset is adapted from China." At the end of the Ming Dynasty, Fang Yizhi recorded: "The military uniforms may have been made from the frontier fortresses, so they are called Zuo Ren". The spiritual and cultural factors that influence the debate between the two sides are greater than the narrow meaning of race.
In Lu You's "Jiannan Poetry Draft", there are 6 references to "Zuo Ren". The reason for mentioning Zuo Ren is to express Lu You's nostalgia for his homeland in the Central Plains and his will to regain the lost land. From Lu You's poems, we can also feel that the "left collar" represents destruction, while the "right collar" is a cultural tradition and inheritance.
There is a record about "Zuo Ren" in Lu You's poem manuscript: "In the fifteenth year since you came, the ghosts of the remaining captives are still wandering. The remaining people have been reduced to Zuo Ren, so why should they complain about their injustice. Sadly, in the past sixty years, Zuo Fan has been reduced to a barbarian, although his ambitions are great. , toothless and useless. The remnants have been angry for a long time and have defiled Zuo Jin. How can a prisoner bother to grow a tassel? In the early days of the frost, eagles and falcons strike, and the smoke is clear under the Tianhe River. Yiwu is not the king's assistant, but I still have enough to save Zuo Jin. When the news from the Central Plains is broken, how can we? Sleep peacefully. The Central Plains fell into the Hufa, but the view behind is vast... The sheep's fur is left with its folds, and it is better to remember the past. Heluo can make the end of the left fold, how can the Cuida Xiumen. Master Wang comes to Yusai one day, how can a clown with a yellow head Enough to swallow."
Wang Fuzhi also mentioned "Zuo Ren" many times when summarizing the historical lessons of the Han people to express the decline of the Central Plains civilization. But the civilization of the Central Plains did not disappear on the "Zuo Ren" side.
3. The main reasons for rejecting the left foldHistorically, it was taken for granted that the collars of the Han people intersect in the right lapel, but the left lapel has always been rejected. However, some archaeological scholars believe that there are also "left-fold" costumes in my country's historical archaeology and archival paintings. Some scholars believe that these are a minority, or they had to wear them due to the rule of aliens. This phenomenon has also been extended to the school debate that "Hanfu can also be left-legged." However, the academic and historical opinions are different. From the perspective of historical evolution, Zuo Jin has always been rejected. What's the reason?
One is backward culture.
The main reason why Zuojin is rejected is that those who wear Zuojin are backward tribes in the north. While the Central Plains has always been rich and advanced, they have always looked down on the backward ethnic groups in the north. This inner rejection also extends to clothing, which is also a kind of distinction. Although there is a saying in history about "riding and shooting in Hufu", it is more of a need for war, which is different from learning to introduce Hufu. "Zuo Ren" can also be regarded as a "synonym" for backward culture.
Second, the hometown is unforgettable.
In history, most of the internal wars in our country were from north to south, that is, the showdown between the northern nomadic tribes and the Central Plains regime. Most of the regimes in the Central Plains failed, especially the Song Dynasty, which is a typical example. The Northern Song Dynasty was destroyed by the Jin Dynasty, which is a typical example, and it is also believed by later generations that "Zuo Jin" defeated You Jin. In fact, after the Jin Dynasty destroyed the Northern Song Dynasty, it ruled the Central Plains, merged the imperial capital with Beijing, and deepened Sinicization. Everything imitated the Central Plains culture. Therefore, "Zoren" is also a humiliation caused by the occupation of one's homeland.
The third is the meaning of insult.
The reason why Zuo Ren has always been rejected in history is that in the Central Plains area, only the clothes worn by people after death are "Zuo Ren". Therefore, if the left and right Ren are not distinguished, it means that the living are insulted as dead people. This is Absolutely unacceptable.
In some movies and TV dramas, because they don’t quite understand the meaning of “right collar” and “left collar” in ancient my country, some costumes are worn as “left collar” and are laughed at. This also shows that even at the stage of the rise of Hanfu, "Zuo Ren" was also rejected.
