The basic cutting method of the underskirt is that the undercoat is a fitted cross-collar short undershirt, the width is based on the person's bust size, and the length only exceeds the waist and does not reach the hips (if the length reaches the hips or exceeds the hips, the hem needs to be added wide and arc-shaped, it is not the square hem in Figure (1). Of course, you can continue to use this cutting method, but the width must be based on the hip size, so that when the undershirt is tucked into the skirt, the upper body will be There will be too much excess fabric), and the skirt is an encircled half-length skirt.
There are two common methods of cutting the collar. Because of the cross-collar, the front placket will overlap part of the cloth, and it is difficult for one piece of cloth to meet the requirements for the front placket cloth volume. Therefore, these two common cutting methods use two pieces of cloth to form a jacket. One is the middle-back split method (as shown in Figure (1)), where the suture line of the two pieces of cloth is in the middle of the back. In ancient paintings, it is common to see an obvious line in the middle of the back of people's clothes. This cutting method must be used; the other is the front patchwork method, that is, the suture line of the two pieces of cloth is on the right front. The purpose of this cutting method is The advantage is that the stitching area is covered by the left lapel and cannot be seen on the surface of the clothing. In addition to these two methods, there is another cutting method that adjusts the slope of the shoulder and sleeve parts to meet the required amount of fabric for the overlapping part of the front. Only one piece of fabric is enough, and there is no need to cut it separately.
What I’m going to introduce next is the mid-back filling method (this is the method I often use, because I think this method is more traditional).
Step 1: Before cuttingFirst of all, you need to master the following data: bust, shoulder and sleeve length, back length, dress length, sleeve edge width, collar edge width, cuff stop, hem stop, etc.
Bust: refers to the bust of clothing rather than the bust of the human body. It is equal to the human body's net bust + clothing looseness. Measure the net bust circumference of the human body by passing the soft ruler horizontally through the breast point (note that the soft tape should be moderately tight). The looseness of the clothes is determined by your own preferences. Generally speaking, a looseness of 4CM~6CM is a tight fit (suitable for comparison requirements) Tight-fitting middle coat or jacket worn alone), 8-10CM is considered a fitted type (can be worn alone or one or two pieces of clothing can be added inside), and above 14CM is considered a loose type, but this is for fabrics of general thickness. If It is a relatively thick winter fabric or the inside is going to be quilted, and it needs to be increased depending on the thickness of the fabric based on each type.Loose amount. If it is not convenient to measure, you can refer to the net bust size of modern adult women: S type 76CM, M type 82CM, L type 88CM, XL type 96CM.
Rotator cuff length: Measure from the bulging cervical vertebra at the back of the neck (also called the nape of the neck) to the desired position of the sleeve on your arm. The shoulder sleeve length also includes the width of the sleeve edge. The long sleeves can be measured to the fingertips (if you take into account that the sleeve length of Hanfu is back to the elbow, you can make it longer). Unless you want to make a half-arm, the short sleeves are recommended to be as short as the middle of the forearm, because the length of Hanfu is the middle of the forearm. It is important not to show your hands. Although modern standards can be relaxed, it is not elegant if it is too short. Modern reference sizes (only to the junction of forearm and palm): S type 59CM, M type 61.5~63.5CM, L type 63~64CM, XL type 64.5CM.
Back length: measured from the back of the neck to the thinnest point of the waist. Modern reference sizes: S type 36.5~37.5CM, M type 38~39.5CM, L type 38~40CM, XL type 39CM.
Clothes length: You can measure directly from the back of the neck to the desired position below the waist, but not to the widest part of the hips (because this is a short jacket). If you don’t want to measure, you can also use the back length plus. Generally, the back length plus 5~14CM is fine.
Sleeve edge width: customized according to personal preference. As for whether sleeve edges are required, generally speaking, narrow sleeves can have no edges, large sleeves must have edges, and medium sleeves have no edges.
Collar width: customized according to personal preference. But pay attention to the width and width ratio to match the person's face shape and body shape, and not to be too exaggerated. For those who are thin, it is not advisable to make a collar that is too wide. The seam (also called a seam) is the amount of fabric used to join. If there is a sleeve edge, leave a 1CM opening. If there is no sleeve edge, leave 2~3CM. Hem stop: 2~3CM.
Step 2: Open the grid and cut out a square piece of fabric or paper pattern).
If it is a fabric that is not easily deformed, such as cotton, you can work directly on the fabric. If it is a fabric that is easily deformed, such as chiffon, silk, etc., it is best to make a paper pattern first.
The size of the grid is:
Length = 1/4 bust + shoulder sleeve length - sleeve edge width + sleeveStop talking;
Width = (length + hem stop) × 2
After opening the grid, draw the following auxiliary lines on the fabric (paper pattern). The position of the auxiliary lines is as shown in Figure (2), and the description is as follows: Rotator cuff line: It is the midpoint line (or fold line) of the front and rear parts of the jacket 1/ 4 Bust line: This line can determine the position of the middle of the back. 1/2 Bust line: This line determines the width of the clothes. Back length line: Determines the position of the waist. Bust line: This line passes through the chest but not through the breast point. Indicates the position of the depth of the armhole (the junction line between the sleeve and the body). The vertical distance from the shoulder and sleeve line is: net bust/6+7CM
Step 3: Draw the line below the body and sleeves, the back center line, the neckline, and the left front placket line).
Open the folded fabric (paper pattern), draw the seam (1CM) of the back center line, neckline line and left front placket line, and then cut along the outside of the seam line (as shown in Figure (5)). The arrow in the picture indicates that it is parallel to the edge of the fabric warp direction.
Step 6: Draw the second piece of clothing.Turn the fabric (paper pattern) in picture (5) over, cover it with another piece of fabric, and cut out the second piece of clothing according to the shape of this piece of clothing.
The length of the collar = the length of the neckline in Figure (3) × 2, and the width of the collar = (the width required for the finished style + the seam 1CM) × 2. The length of the sleeve edge = the length of the cuff + the stop 2CM, the width of the sleeve edge = (the width required for the finished style + the stop 1CM) × 2
The cutting of the jacket is completed.
2. How to cut skirtsThe traditional skirt of Hanfu is an enclosed skirt, which is made up of several skirt pieces and connected to the waist. There are ties on both sides of the skirt waist (as shown in Figure (6)). The number of skirt pieces is not fixed because the ancient cloth was narrow. The more the number of skirt pieces, the greater the width of the skirt and hem. The Han Dynasty skirt style was only Four pieces, usually six pieces in the Tang Dynasty, and more than six pieces in the Song Dynasty.Above, eight or ten paintings were mostly used in the late Ming Dynasty. The width of modern fabrics can increase the area of skirts and reduce the number of skirts. The number of skirts of modern encircled skirts is generally 3 to 4. However, from the perspective of traditional inheritance, it is best to make Han-style skirts. Use the traditional number of skirt pieces, such as 6, 8, 10, 12 pieces, etc.
Waist (or bust/bust): Which one is required depends on the base style. The skirt can be worn in the following ways: top-chest, bottom-bust, and waist-cinching. The data of upper bust, lower bust and waist should be measured according to different wearing methods. Skirt circumference: = waist circumference (or upper bust/lower bust) × 1.5~2 times + pleat amount + additional stoppage on the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4CM). The multiple is determined by personal walking habits and the weight of the fabric. The bigger the steps when walking, the greater the multiple of the skirt. The drape of the fabric is better, and the heavier the feel, the multiple of the skirt can be slightly smaller, but It cannot be less than 1.5 times, otherwise there is a risk of exposure. The amount of pleats determines the number and size of pleats on the skirt. Pleating methods include pleating, shirring, etc., which will not be described in detail here. However, it should be noted that the number and size of pleats should be determined according to the thickness of the fabric and the person's body shape. Because pleats will increase the volume of the upper part of the skirt, thick fabrics should not be made with too many pleats. People with plump body types should not make too many pleats. Be careful to only do an appropriate amount of pleats (an appropriate amount of pleats can conceal your body shape, but if the fabric is harder and the hem of the skirt is larger to create more waves, pleats are not required). Skirt length: determined by style. However, the lower part of the skirt must reach the ankle. If the skirt is too short, it will be unsightly to expose the socks or calves.
Step 2: Open the grid and cut it.The grid size is as shown in (7). After opening the grid, draw vertical auxiliary lines on the paper pattern. There is no limit to the number of 2 or 4. It is best to draw the auxiliary lines at a symmetrical distance from the center line of the grid (as shown in Figure (8)).
Cut along the auxiliary lines in the grid, leaving a strand at the top uncut, then cover it on another larger piece of paper, fix the middle piece with a pin or the like, and unfold the remaining pieces at the same distance. The greater the distance, the greater the curvature above the skirt, the larger the hem of the skirt, and the greater the waveiness of the hem. The amount of placement should also be determined based on the thickness and hardness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the harder it is, so the amount of placement should be appropriate, otherwise the lower part of the skirt will be too bulky.
Note that the arcs above and below the skirt must be drawn smoothly, and the four corners must be kept at right angles.
Generally speaking, the warp direction of the skirt is perpendicular to the ground. There are also practices where the warp direction is at an oblique angle to the ground. This approach can form softer waves, but it is not suitable for fabrics that are too easy to deform and fabrics that will damage the pattern. . Related pictures for this topic are as follows:
Step 6: Use the paper pattern to cut out the required number of skirt pieces on the fabric.After cutting, make sure to check it with the paper pattern again. Because the edge of the skirt is a diagonal line, it is easy to stretch and deform, so you need to check the original pattern again and cut off the part that has grown out due to stretching.
Step 7: Cut out the skirt waist.Skirt waist length = skirt circumference - pleat amount - added hem amount on the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4CM) + hem amount (2CM). The width of the skirt waist is customized. Note that when the width of the skirt waist increases to a certain amount, the skirt waist can also play the role of correcting the waist shape like a wide belt (it is best to use a fabric that is slightly lighter than the skirt and skirt). However, the width of the skirt waist should not be greater than the distance between the waist and the lowest part of the human chest ribs (unless it is a specially designed style).
