As one of the most prosperous dynasties in history, the Sui and Tang Dynasties, women's clothing and fashion were exactly the same as the national style and culture of the time. They were as open as a prosperous sequence and were all kinds of gorgeous and romantic. After a period of flowers fade away, there are new flowers to indulge in.
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, production and textile technology were further improved, and foreign exchanges became increasingly frequent, which brought about a new situation in clothing styles, colors, patterns, etc. The costumes of the Five Dynasties basically followed the costumes of the late Tang Dynasty. Men usually wore futou robes and shirts, while women wore skirts.
The clothing system of the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties also affected Japan, the Korean Peninsula and other surrounding areas. For example, the kimono from Nara to the Heian period in Japan, the middle to late Three Kingdoms period in Korea, and the Silla period in post-unification Korea. Hanbok was deeply influenced by the clothing of the Sui and Tang Dynasties.
From the Sui Dynasty, when the world was first unified, to the early Tang Dynasty, there were huge differences in women's clothing between the north and the south. The main reason is that at the end of the Sui Dynasty and the beginning of the Tang Dynasty, the north had been under the rule of the Hu people for a long time, and the folk customs were enlightened. Women often went out of their boudoir to participate in some social activities. Their daily clothes were characterized by "pinned collars, small sleeves" and "crown crowns". Most of them are "Hufu" wearing a hat and a small coat. Narrow shirts, long skirts, silk shawls, and short boots are more convenient for socializing and traveling.
Southern women are bound by etiquette, and their clothing inherits the wide-band style of robes since the Han, Wei and Six Dynasties, with floor-length skirts and high-heeled shoes. The wide sleeves also facilitate heat dissipation and cooling in hot weather. There is even a saying that "one sleeve is as big as a foot and can be broken into two".
After the unification of the Sui and Tang Dynasties, "Han-style" clothing became popular in the south and was used as a dress or dress. "Hu-style" clothing popular in the north is used as daily clothing.
The traditional attire of the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties is a short jacket or blouse, a long skirt, a silk shawl, half arms, and crested silk shoes or finely woven straw shoes. Ru skirts in the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties can usually be divided into main shapes such as shirts, shawls, undershirts, half-arms, knee-coverings, and skirts. There is a saying in the Tang Dynasty poem "Youxian Cave": "Yanhua's nature is full, and she comes from dressing up", which is used to describe the beauty of women. Among them, "attire" in modern terms means "fashion".
Generally speaking, the jacket skirts in the early Tang Dynasty followed the style of clothing in the previous dynasties. The basic style is short jacket with narrow sleeves and a long skirt. The skirt is narrow and sometimes as long as it touches the floor. The skirt waist is tied above the chest. Some are tied at the waist. under the arms and tied with a ribbon. Wearing a silk shawl over the shoulders or half-arms, and wearing high-heeled shoes gives people a pretty and slender look. During the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the overall style of Ru skirt clothing was mainly loose and the shapes were more diverse. The middle and late Tang Dynasty began to return to Confucian ethics, and undershirts returned to the traditional culture of the Central Plains with wide sleeves and wide clothes.
01shirt
The shirt was a top worn by women in the Tang Dynasty on a daily basis. It was cut in a short length and the sleeves were slender and narrow in fashion. In spring and summer, they were mostly single-layered and made of soft and thin fabric without sleeve edges. In cold seasons, the shirt was Wear double-layered shirts with cotton lining. As for the collar style of tops, there were two main styles at that time: straight collar and curved collar. When worn, there were various styles such as overlapping lapels or double lapels.
It is worth mentioning that the underwear worn by women at that time had the same word as "socks" today. The way of wearing it was to wrap it around the chest and waist when wearing a short and narrow shirt. The wearing method was similar to that of wrapping the chest.
The main material is leno, which is an ancient production process. All or part of the fabric is formed by a special process of strip-shaped warp weaving. Since leno is mostly made of silk, the process is complex and unique, and the fabrics made with it are relatively complex. Silk, silk and satin are more valuable and were mostly used by nobles in ancient times.
02楦
The jacket of the Tang Dynasty Ru skirt was usually very short and the neckline was relatively shaped.Rich, including round collar, cross collar, square collar, slant collar, sweetheart collar, straight collar, lapel and other styles. Generally speaking, round collars are mainly popular among the aristocratic class, while ordinary Han people mostly wear cross collars.
What is worth mentioning is the bare collar of the jacket, that is, no underwear is worn underneath, and the entire chest is exposed. The bare collar is a bold, open and sexy design in the Tang Dynasty. It is the embodiment of women's freedom and bold pursuit of beauty in the Tang Dynasty. In the Tang Dynasty, only upper-class women were allowed to wear topless clothing, while women from common people were not allowed to wear topless clothing.
The dress consists of a large-sleeved undershirt paired with a long skirt, which is usually seen in upper-class ladies' attire. There is also a scarf covering the skirt under the undergarment. The neckline is quite open and the sleeves expand from the elbows to large sleeves. Most of the skirt styles matched with large-sleeved undershirts are not much different from the popular long skirts in daily life. It is just inconvenient in ceremonial occasions. Generally, belts are used to tie up the hem of the skirt. Instead, high-heeled shoes are needed to lift the skirt hems. walk.
03 Half Arm
Before the half-arm became popular in the Tang Dynasty, the narrow and long sleeves of the inner shirt exposed from the large sleeves of the undershirt were called half-arm. The shape of the half-arm was like a shirt with the long sleeves removed, and it became a wide-mouthed short-sleeved garment. The half-arm fabric in the Tang Dynasty Mostly made of brocade, they are worn under round-neck robes, so they are called brocade half-arms. During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, Yangzhou produced half-arm brocade, which was specially designed to make half-arm colored brocades.
The wadding on the half arm is usually of different colors and extends from the waist down to the knees, resembling a short skirt. The wadding material is mostly soft damask or silk. Tang Dynasty clothesWhen mentioning the half-arm in the account of things, its qi is often recorded, such as the records of "silk silk half arm, blue silk orchid", "half arm one, showing the ground armor and valerian, with white lining in it, and the qi and silk threads are in the clouds".
04skirt
The lower part of the skirt is a long skirt. The types of skirts are rich, diverse and colorful, showing the luxurious clothing style of the Tang Dynasty. In the early and prosperous Tang Dynasty, the waist of the skirt was tied under the armpits or tucked into the undergarment of a shirt to highlight the lines of the chest.
Long skirts are fashionable and made of multiple fabrics, and can be divided into single colors and multi-colors. Multi-colors are called mid-color long skirts or pleated skirts. Colors include vermilion, green, vermilion, black, blue and white, red and white, black and white, red, white and blue; single color long skirts are popular in red, purple, green, yellow, cyan and white.
During the Sui and Tang Dynasties, skirts became more popular and were loved by all classes. The length of skirts in the Tang Dynasty increased significantly compared with previous dynasties. Some skirts have increased skirt width and become more plump and plump.
There are nearly 300 poems about skirts in the entire Tang poetry. Wang Changling's "Lotus Picking Song" poem goes: "The lotus leaf skirt is cut in the same color, and the hibiscus blooms on both sides of the face; it is invisible when entering the pool, and you only feel someone coming when you hear the song." It is a metaphor that the skirt is as green as the lotus leaves, in the scenery of lakes and mountains. Like a wonderful picture. Bai Juyi's "Xiaoqu New Ci" says: "On a bright moonlit night in a red dress, the green palace is in early autumn. It's good to stay in Zhaoyang, when the weather is cool and jade leaks late." Put the girl in a red dress on a bright moonlit night in early autumn, the moonlight and The colors of the skirt complement each other.
05 Pilgrim
The skirt is long and touches the floor, and a long scarf-like shawl is draped over the shoulders. In addition to the dress, there is a shawl, which is a light and soft ribbon-like long scarf. It is first draped around the neck and shoulders, then casually wrapped around the chest and arms, and finally draped by the body. It was first seen on the clothing of gods in the Hellenistic period of Western Asia BC. Going east, it became the clothing of heavenly beings flying in the wind in Buddhist art. After Buddhism was introduced to the Central Plains during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, it was gradually integrated into secular clothing.
Silk draping has appeared in murals in the Sui Dynasty and was widely popular in the Tang Dynasty. It is usually made of tulle with silver or gold and silver flowers painted on it. One end is fixed on the chest strap of the half arm, and then draped over the shoulders and twisted between the arms. There are two types of shawls: one is wider in banner and shorter in length and is mostly used by married women; the other is more than two meters long and is mostly used by unmarried women.
06Knee covering
Knee coverings were a must-wear item for women in the Tang Dynasty, and they symbolized admiration and respect for the past. The knee-covering belt consists of a belt tied around the waist and a strip hanging down to the knee. The belt is straight and the hanging strip is narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, shaped like an axe. Patterns are painted on it, and it is longer than the knee. When worn, it is tied to the outside of the garment and can be worn with jade. The drooping strip hangs in the middle of the front of the waist and lower body.
As part of the ancient clothing system, it has the function of distinguishing grades, distinguishing between superior and inferior, and observing etiquette. Depending on the grade, there are strict regulations on pattern styles.
Knee coverings were generally made of leather. As productivity increased, cloth replaced animal skins, and the material of the knee coverings also changed, with both leather and fabric being used. Since then, textile technology has continued to advance, and the practical function of knee-covering has gradually weakened, and more attention has been paid to aesthetic value and symbolic significance. It is one of the dominant signs of hierarchy, so the knee-covering form has always had a place in ancient Han nationality costumes. .
Clothing is another form of cultural expression, also known as "worn history." The costumes of the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties not only maintained their unity during the changes of dynasties, but also were full of the color of the times, leaving a touch of splendor to Chinese civilization.
