![Illustrated guide to making the Chinese Hanfu Qixiong Ruqun](/wp-content/uploads/2024/03/gohanfugirl.webp)
Chest-length skirts are generally divided into two types, chest-length skirts with double lapels and chest-length skirts with crossed collars. Chest-length skirts were very popular among ladies in the Tang Dynasty. Many of the cultural relics unearthed in the prosperous Tang Dynasty that we are familiar with are chest-length skirts. .
Upper jacket and lower skirt:
There are many types of upper collars: square collar, round collar, straight collar and sweetheart collar. The upper jacket is also divided into long sleeves, half sleeves, etc. Common cuffs include narrow sleeves, straight sleeves, and wide sleeves.
Skirts are available in one-piece and two-piece styles. The skirt is elegant, elegant, colorful, and gorgeous. It is one of the treasures of Hanfu.
Today, the editor will teach you how to make a homemade chest-length undershirt. After reading this, you can make it at home!
Fabric preparation
Upper fabric: Tang sapphire blue chiffon
Skirt: pearl chiffon (lining), light pink, chiffon (top), navy chiffon, ribbon, viscous and lining white pure cotton.
Ruffle production
Lay the fabric flat on the table and fold it in half. Use drawing powder to calculate the size on the fabric and draw it (don’t forget to calculate the seam allowance. Cut the required pieces of fabric before and after in one go.
Sew the center seam of the back piece, join the sleeves, and the side seams on both sides. They all use the method of sewing back and forth. Iron the collar, which needs to be glued and lined. (The chiffon fabric is very soft, and the sticky lining is to make the collar stiffer)
Roll the hem 2cm and iron it flat with an iron. (Be sure to make the curling edge smooth. If you are not skilled, you can fix it with a beading needle first)
The finished collar and straps are sewn together, and the last step is to put on the collar. (Use a ruler to measure the length of the collar to know the data) You’re done~
The making of skirt
First, fold the fabric in half along the edge of the fabric (this is the most basic cutting method). Cut two pieces of fabric, each of pearl chiffon and light pink chiffon, 130cm long (measured from the chest to the soles of the feet) and 140cm wide (fabric width). The straps on both sides are cut together, and the length and width of the straps are customized.
First sew two pieces of light pink chiffon and pearl chiffon into a whole piece, the same method of sewing back and forth is used. Then sew the sewn pearl chiffon and light pink chiffon (according to the width of 140cm) together.
Start making pleats in pairs. The pleats should be in the same direction. I personally like denser pleats. The total length of the finished one-piece skirt should be equal to one and a half circles of your bust, the pleat calculation formula. (88+88/2=132, total length 280/132=2.12 expansion amount is approximately 6.36 280/6.36=44 pleat amount)
The pure cotton cloth used on the chest should be shrunk one day in advance, and the cotton cloth with adhesive lining and ribbon should be sewn together (you can not add ribbon and hand-draw your favorite picture on the cotton cloth)That’s it!)
The straps on both sides of the chest are ironed and flattened, and the straps are fixed and sewn on both sides. Leave a 1cm seam allowance at the bottom of the webbing