Nowadays, this style of Hanfu is probably what you see most on the market
Chest-length underskirt: double-breasted undershirt + one-piece pleated skirt
1. Concept
This is called "Ru skirt". In fact, "Ru" and "skirt" refer to two things. The former refers to the top, and the latter refers to the skirt.
Nowadays, it is generally believed that clothes that need to be tucked into the waist of the skirt are called "ru", and those that are made longer and cover the waist of the skirt are called "coats". In fact, these two styles of dresses belong to the skirt system.
Long coat + horse face skirt
In the early Han Dynasty, the upper garments were collectively called "Ru". After the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the "Ru" was subdivided into "coats" and "shirts" according to the number of layers of clothing. The "coat" is multi-layered, and the inner layer is slightly smaller than the outer layer. It can be used to keep warm and prevent wear. It is called "hanging lining", just like the "lining" of modern clothing. The "shirt" is single layer.
The lady wearing a long gown in "The Picture of a Lady with Hairpins"
2. Shape
Today we are talking about the "skirt" where the top needs to be tucked into the skirt.
This kind of Hanfu usually has a short upper skirt, which only reaches the waist or even to the chest, and does not require slits; while the skirt is very long and hangs down to the floor.
According to different styles of collars, underskirts can be divided into cross-neck underskirts and double-breasted underskirts; according to the height of the skirt waist, underskirts can be divided into mid-waist underskirts (the same as waist-length underskirts), high-waisted underskirts (high-waisted underskirts) under the chest) and chest-length underskirt.
Mid-waist skirt
High waist skirt
Chest-length underskirt
As mentioned last time, Hanfu can also be divided into "dress" and "regular clothes" according to the scene. In ancient times, "dress" was worn during special periods such as sacrifices, crown braiding ceremonies, weddings and funerals. The pattern form, collar and sleeve size will also match the scene. Make timely adjustments.
wedding dress
In daily wear, the upper jacket is mostly straight sleeves or airplane sleeves, supplemented by a crossed collar or a split collar.
Hand over the jacket
Double-breasted jacket
In ancient times, women's skirts were not tied very high at the waist. However, during the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, a very high skirt was popular with the skirts tied at the waist, level with the top of the chest., so it is called "chest-length skirt". The prototype of this kind of skirt probably originated in the Northern and Southern Dynasties. It faded out of history after the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, but it is still loved by many colleagues today.
The Hanfu skirts on the market today can be divided into one-piece "pleated skirts" and multi-piece "broken skirts" based on styles restored from different historical data. Pleated skirts are made of rectangular fabrics pleated directly at the waist. Broken skirts, also known as "piece skirts", are made of multiple trapezoidal fabrics with narrow bottom edges sewn together as the waist. (There is currently controversy over whether the ancient Hanfu skirt was made as a "pleated skirt" or a "piece skirt")
pleated skirt
Torn skirt
In addition, the chest-length undershirt is completely different from the Korean women's jacket and skirt with a shortened top. The former has a double-breasted style and is in the form of a blouse tucked into the skirt. The top is relatively long, at least to the waist, but in the end most of it is used as a chest-high undershirt. Covered by a long skirt; the latter is a deformed cross-collar, in the form of a dress covering a skirt. The top is very short and generally can only cover the chest. The skirt needs to cover other parts. The overly inflated skirt is also inconsistent with the natural sagging. The Hanfu pleated skirt is different.
Hanbok
Hanfu: chest-length underskirt
3. Dress
The underskirt can be worn alone, or it can be supplemented with myrobalan, tube top, etc.; the outer clothing can choose half-arm, undergarment, bijia, etc., and a curtain can be added outside the skirt; it can also be decorated with silk, palace ribbon, etc.; Skirt is a common dress in Hanfu, suitable for daily wear.
Paired with tube top
Mix ratio A
With half arm
Cooperate with me
Pair it with a shawl
Men's underskirt is an underskirt worn by men, consisting of an upper underskirt and a lower skirt. Most of the upper skirts are cross-collared. Compared with women's underskirts, men's underskirts are more simple in style and pattern. Han men also have a long history of wearing skirts. Although later the emergence of deep clothes, straight clothes, etc., the number of private clothing decreased, but the highest official standard for menDress, still a system of clothes, lasted until the fall of the Ming Dynasty.
Han Chinese clothing for men
Men's clothing
