Illustrated guide to various Tang Dynasty Hanfu costumes in costume dramas

The Tang Dynasty was its heyday and was very tolerant and open. The "Weather of the Tang Dynasty" is often used to describe this era. The clothing is also correspondingly magnificent and has the characteristics of the times. It can be seen that the costumes appearing in the TV series "The Twelve Hours of Chang'an" have been carefully considered. Taoist uniforms, round-neck robes, women's and men's clothing, underskirts, etc., all restore the characteristics of Tang Dynasty clothing.

Taoist uniform

Taoist clothing, the clothing worn by Taoists, belongs to the Hanfu system. In "The Twelve Hours of Chang'an", Li Mi wears typical Taoist clothing.

Taoist clothing can be divided into five parts: Taoist scarves, Taoist crowns, Taoist robes, shoes and socks, and accessories. Taoist priests have different grades and dress differently.

Li Mi has practiced Taoism for more than ten years and has a very high rank. He does not wear a Taoist scarf but a Taoist crown. The Taoist crown worn by Li Mi belongs to the three Taoist crowns, and only high-level Taoist priests are qualified to wear it. The three crowns of Taoism are the Taiqing fishtail crown, the Yuqing lotus crown, and the Shangqing hibiscus crown. The picture shows the hibiscus crown.

Ziwu Hairpin

Matching the crown is a hairpin. Dao hairpins are used by Taoist priests to tie their hair into a bun. They can be divided into horizontal and straight styles. The straight one is the Ziwu hairpin, and the horizontal one is the Maoyou hairpin. Straight hairpins were more common from the Jin and Southern and Northern Dynasties to the Tang and Song Dynasties. Dao hairpins are generally made of boxwood, jade, or metal. The hairpins are either curved or straight, and some have Tai Chi patterns engraved on their back ends.

The one who is crowned is the one who observes. Look inside the body, control the six emotions, suppress greed, be humble and meditate, wash away the worldly fatigue, think sincerely, and achieve the path and fruition. The appearance of things does not belong to me. It is delusional.I am greedy and confused, and my mind is confused. You should observe the wonderful things, always have no desires, and have virtue and beauty in your body. The three lights of the Dharma are like the lotus flower, untainted in the world, perfect and unhindered. ——"Three-hole Dharma Clothing Code and Precepts"

As soon as Li Mi appeared on the stage, his green Taoist robe was particularly eye-catching, like a person who banished immortals. Cyan is a color commonly used in Taoism, but the so-called cyan in the past, whether it is sky blue, navy blue or black, is a color that is very deep and close to black. However, in the plot, the light cyan color is more suitable for young Li Mi.

The shoes of Taoist priests are red shoes, which are red shoes. They were a very popular dress for Taoist priests at that time.

Li Mipei has a whisk, which is also a common Taoist accessory in TV dramas. The whisk is made of wood or metal, and the end of the handle is tied with brown silk or horsetail. The earliest function of the whisk was to sweep away dust or drive away mosquitoes and flies. Traveling Taoist priests took many of them and used them to drive away things in the mountains. Later, it had the meaning of cleaning away the dirt in the soul and making the spiritual platform pure. Later, some people in Taoism used it as a weapon, and now it has become a pure decoration.

Li Mi is a Taoist priest of the Shangqing sect, and the Maoshan sect was actually the Shangqing sect in the past. The master of the Shangqing Sect has a Mr. Baiyun named Sima Chengzhen, who was the national master of the Tang Dynasty and had a huge influence. Sima Chengzhen, Li Bai, Wang Wei, He Zhizhang and others were called the "Ten Friends of the Immortal Sect".

Round neck robe

During the Tang Dynasty, round-neck robes were popular clothing, and both men and women loved to wear round-neck robes. When people in the Tang Dynasty wore round-neck robes, they usually wore round-neck middle coats. The buttons at the collar could also be unbuttoned, similar to the large coats of modern coats.lapel. Round-neck robes of different colors and leather belts of different materials represent the different ranks of officials. He Zhizhang, of the third rank, wears purple, and Xu Bin, of the eighth rank, wears dark cyan.

Purple is the clothing of the third grade, with gold and jade belts of thirteen; scarlet is the clothing of the fourth grade, with gold and gold belts eleven; light crimson is the clothing of the fifth grade, and the gold belt is ten; dark green is the clothing of the sixth grade, and light green is the clothing of the sixth grade. The clothes of the seventh rank are all silver with a nine-piece belt; dark blue is the uniform of the eighth rank, and light blue is the uniform of the ninth rank, both of which are worn with a stone belt. ——"New Tang Book·Cars and Clothing Records"

Official round neck robe

Men wear round collars and futou. The Tang Dynasty was deeply influenced by Hu clothing, and the leather belt also evolved from the "courage" of Hu clothing. Yao Runeng's leather belt is the cocoon belt.

Futou

耀螞 belt

Fish bags were specially worn by officials in the Tang Dynasty. The goldfish bag is a status symbol and equivalent to a passport, so in the play Cao Poyan kills Jiao Sui for this passport.

Palace gates and city gates are given fish-traveling talismans and fish-patrolling talismans. Those who carry the fish talisman with them, in order to show their superiority and inferiority, respond to orders, two on the left and one on the right. The one on the left enters the house, and the one on the right carries it with him. The crown prince summoned him with a jade deed, and he went after the meeting. The princes use gold, the officials use copper, and they are all inscribed with a certain name. Those with two official positions will add fish bags to their left and right sides, and those with the third rank and above will be decorated with gold, and those with the fifth rank and above will be decorated with silver. ——"New Tang Book·Cars and Clothing Records"

Goldfish bag, parrot cup

Goldfish bag

Women wearing men's clothing

In the Tang Dynasty, due to the integration of various ethnic cultures, women in the Central Plains also began to ride horses and shoot arrows. They not only wore men's clothing, but also were fully armed, wearing bows and arrows, etc., showing their heroic appearance. Du Fu's poem says, "There is a man in front of the chariot with a bow and arrow, and a white horse chews a golden leash. He turns over and shoots clouds towards the sky, and his two flying wings fall with a smile." Women wearing men's clothing is an open scene in the prosperous period of the Tang Dynasty, and it is also a symbol of fashion. In "Spring Outing of the Lady of Guo State", there are several women wearing men's round-neck robes, futou and dengue boots.

Lady Guo's spring outing

In the play, Tan Qi, Wen Ran, and Wang Yunxiu all wore men's round-neck robes. With her hair tied up in a hairpin and wearing a bow and arrow, she looks pretty and handsome.

Round neck robe lapels

Leather belt, arm guards, bow and arrow

Skirt

When women in the Tang Dynasty wore skirts, they would often lift the skirt waist to the chest and wear a short jacket. A short undershirt with a half-arm cover was a very fashionable women's attire during the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The Tang Dynasty Tricolor Painting provides real evidence. The maid wears a floor-length skirt, a tight-fitting narrow-sleeved short coat, a half-arm cover, and the lower part is tied with a colorful ribbon. The color of the half arm is very bright, and the half arm is usually matched with the skirt and cannot be worn alone. In addition to half-arms, a thin shirt is sometimes worn over a short jacket.

The half-sleeved skirt is often worn by women in the East Palace. ——"New Tang Book·Cars and Clothing Records"

The maids in Yuanzai's house seemed to come to life directly from their frozen state.

Skirt

Tang Sancai

The materials used in women's clothing in the Tang Dynasty were very wasteful. Most underskirts require more than six pieces of fabric to be sewn together, and the hem of the skirt has to be dragged to the ground. This wide and slender skirt costs a lot of money both in terms of craftsmanship and materials. Therefore, the following restrictions have emerged.

Liuwai and common people do not accept damask, Luo, 縠, five-color threads, and shoes. Colored clothes are no more than twelve rags, and dark-colored clothes are no more than six taels. ——Conclusion of "New Tang Book·Cars and Clothing Records"

Because of the open and inclusive nature of the era, Tang Dynasty clothing had its own unique charm, especially women's clothing, which showed unprecedented innovation and creation. People in the Tang Dynasty activelyHis spiritual outlook is reflected in his clothing.