The chest-length underskirt was formerly known as the high-waisted underskirt. It is the name given to a unique women's underskirt during the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties periods. In ancient times, most women's underskirts were not very high. However, during the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, a kind of underskirt appeared. A skirt with a very high waistband is often called a high-waist skirt in some clothing history. According to people's current research on it, it is generally called a chest-length skirt. Chest-length underskirts are generally divided into two types, one is the chest-length undershirt with a double-breasted skirt, and the other is a cross-collar chest-high underskirt. Generally speaking, the chest-length underskirt with a double-breasted skirt is more widely used.
Fabric usage reference
What is announced here is not cutting data, but some basic fabric requirements. It is specially provided for those who buy cloth and make their own clothes.
Based on the door width of 1.2 meters, the height and body standards of around 160cm can be used as a reference. If it is higher than 170 or fat, add half a meter to one meter.
Short clothes = hip length, long clothes = knee length.
Tops
Cross-collar short coat: narrow sleeves 2 meters; wide sleeves and pipa sleeves 3 meters.
Cross-collar long coat: narrow sleeves 3 meters; wide sleeves and pipa sleeves 4 meters.
Cardigan: 2 meters.
Stand-up collar shorts: 2.5 meters.
Long coat with vertical collar: 4.5 meters.
Square collar short jacket: 2.5 meters.
Cross-collar half-sleeved shirt: 1.5 to 2 meters.
Double-breasted half-sleeved shirt: 1.5 to 2 meters.
Than A: 1.5 meters
Bottom skirtOrdinary pleated skirt (broken pleats, double pleats, smooth pleats): waist-length skirt/chest-length skirt, 3 meters or more.
Horse-face pleated skirt: 4 meters or more.
pantsMen's trousers: 2.5 meters.
Women's pants: 2 meters.
robeCurved train: robe 6 meters; short robe 5 meters; edge 2 meters; belt 1 meter.
Straight train: 6 meters, edge 2 meters, belt 1 meter.
Zhu Zi's deep clothing: 7 meters, edge 2 meters, belt 1 meter.
Ming Dynasty deep clothing: 7 meters, edge 2 meters, belt 1 meter.
Taoist robe: 7 meters, edge 2 meters, belt 1 meter.
Clothing: 7 meters, edge 2 meters, belt 1 meter.
Straight waist/straight body: 6 meters.
Tangyuan collar robe: 4 meters.
Ming Yuan collar robe (official uniform)/Song lan shirt/Ming lan shirt: 6 meters. (Zhazhao machine’s font library can’t type that character, it’s left and right)
Drag: 8 meters.
Tieli: 8 meters.
blouseGuzi: 3.5 meters, edge 1.5 meters.
Cloak: 4 meters.
Fashion clothes: 4 meters, edge 2 meters.
Cape: 2.5 meters.
Here are some fabrics for clothes that I heard discussed by seniors. They all use the cheapest and most suitable materials. If conditions permit, you can also use better and more expensive fabrics.
Trim: cottonnumb. (After all, it is a dress. If you can afford beautiful and good materials, you should use good materials. That’s the point.)
Pleated skirt: cotton and linen; chiffon; chemical fiber.
Chest-length: Tops are cotton; silk cotton; silk. The lower garments are all silk.
褙子: silk cotton; cotton; silk.
Horse skirt: chemical fiber.
Summary of jacket and chest-length skirt
1. Collar: double lapel, crossed collar; collar edge of the same or different fabric as the clothes (I have reservations about whether the double lapel top is the mainstream, after all, a wide collared collar can also have the same effect)
2. Laces: 1 set of laces or 2 sets (cross collar), the color and length of the laces are unknown
3. Sleeve type: narrow arrow sleeves, the cuff depth is about ≤10cm (this type is the most common, the narrowest part of the cuff can only allow the palm to pass through);
Medium straight sleeves, the sleeve depth is about ≥30cm (seen in the palace music paintings); wide sleeves, the sleeve depth is >50cm (seen in the paintings of ladies with hairpins and murals, but they are all draped outside the skirt);
The cuffs often have no sleeve edges, or have narrow sleeve edges of the same color. Some pottery figurines with round necks and half arms have different-colored sleeve edges; there may be sleeves in the middle of the sleeves.
4. Body: either as long as the crotch, or as short as below the bust line, with a "middle seam" at the back, and possibly slits on both sides; the cutting method is unknown.
Note: The sleeve shape in this picture refers to the style of the arrow-sleeved round collar robe of the Tang Dynasty. Regarding the curvature from the armpit to the hem, the curvature of the Tang Dynasty object is almost negligible, so it can be cut straight up and down, for reference only.
Chest-length skirt
1. Skirt length: The length reaches the floor, but for the sake of cleanliness, it can be shortened appropriately. Girls who wear high heels, please add the height of the high heels by yourself.
2. Skirt waist: You can choose the same fabric as the skirt, or use different fabrics; the skirt waist can be made of one kind of fabric for the front and another for the inner layer. One way is to save the amount of material used on the front, and the other is the inner layer fabric. You can choose fabrics with more friction to strengthen the fixation effect and prevent slipping.
3. Lace straps: relatively slender, mostly fixed under the armpits on both sides, and also tied on the chest (the width of the lace straps can be freely set according to preference. Some clouds generally use thinner ones, about 2cm)
4. Style: One-piece enclosed style, two-piece slit style (if you want to be lazy, you can make one side slit style yourself)
5. Pleats: There are downwind pleats, I-shaped pleats, and irregular pleats (please feel free to use them~)
