"Mo Chun, spring clothes are ready, five or six crowns, six or seven boys, bathing in Yi, dancing in the wind, chanting and returning." In the heart of Confucius' disciple Zeng Dian, the interest in life is this spring day Outing pictures. More than two thousand years later, people's enthusiasm for life remains the same as the ancients. In today's spring, putting on seasonal clothes, hanging out with friends, and going out are still the best ways for many young people to welcome the wonderful spring.
In the pictures of spring outings in various places, Hanfu is particularly eye-catching: they are mostly designed based on the costumes of various ancient Chinese dynasties, showing a strong traditional charm; they have various shapes and styles, showing the splendidness of our country's traditional costume culture .
More and more people are familiar with Hanfu, and more and more people are falling in love with wearing Hanfu. Why does Hanfu frequently go “out of the circle”? In the spring, reporters took questions to Hanfu enthusiasts, communicators and researchers, and explored with them the cultural stories behind the "Hanfu craze".
A child wearing Hanfu plays in the Tang Furong Garden in Xi'an, Shaanxi Province. Published by Xinhua News Agency
1. Hanfu enters daily life
How hot is the current "Hanfu craze"? On a certain platform, short videos related to "New Chinese Style 'Outfits'" were played more than 12 billion times; in January this year, the transaction volume of Hanfu categories such as horse-faced skirts increased by more than 300% year-on-year; the Year of the Dragon Spring Festival Gala program "Nian Jin" After its debut, Hanfu instantly became a hot search topic and continues to become a hot topic on the Internet.
After "Nian Jin" helped Hanfu "break the circle", many Hanfu enthusiasts couldn't help but sigh: "From niche to 'top', Hanfu has gone on for 20 years."
A man took a photo with Hanfu enthusiasts in front of the Houses of Parliament in London, England. Published by Xinhua News Agency
Back in November 2003, Zhengzhou citizen Wang Letian put on Hanfu and took to the streets, becoming one of the first Hanfu enthusiasts to be reported by the media. This was also an important beginning of the "Hanfu trend" currently recognized by the "Hanfu circle". Since then, Hanfu, a costume with strong traditional cultural color, has increasingly come into the public eye and gradually become popular.
So, why did the “Hanfu trend” begin at the beginning of the 21st century?
"Successful bid for the Olympics, hosting the APEC meeting, joining the World Trade Organization... As China takes firm steps into the new century, the cultural confidence of the Chinese people continues to rise. The emergence of Hanfu came after the level of economic development reached a certain height. The result is that people’s sense of identity with Chinese culture has been further enhanced.” Fan Yugang, a visiting professor at the Global Urban Civilization Model Institute of Southern University of Science and Technology, told reporters that there are deep-seated social and cultural motivations behind the “Hanfu trend”. “Hanfu is rooted in ancient Chinese traditional clothing. , embodies the essence of traditional clothing culture, and also shows the changes in the aesthetics of the younger generation."
Nowadays, there are more and more fans of Hanfu, and the influence of Hanfu is also growing. Data jointly released by the China National Garment Association and other organizations show that as of 2023, the market size of my country's modern Hanfu industry will reach approximately 13 billion yuan, with approximately 14.48 million consumers.
Searching for Hanfu styles on the Internet, you can see various styles and shapes of Jin, Tang, Song, etc. Some are full of ancient style, while others are closer to modern clothing. The Hanfu consumer market has produced different subdivisions, among which the most common category in daily life is commuting Hanfu.
Tourists wearing traditional costumes walk in the scenic area of Qingzhou Ancient City, Shandong Province. Published by Xinhua News Agency
Liang Yan, a professor at the School of Fashion Art and Engineering of Beijing University of Fashion Technology, told reporters that the purpose of commuting design of HanfuThe goal is to adaptively transform ancient Chinese clothing so that Hanfu can be integrated into people's daily life and work. "The clothes must be as close to the shape and style of ancient clothing as possible without causing any inconvenience to the user." .
"Commuting design should be based on a thorough study of ancient clothing." Liang Yan gave an example. She once designed an everyday women's top based on the large sleeves of Southern Song Dynasty women's clothing unearthed from the Huashan Tomb in Gaochun, Nanjing. The original sleeve length of the cultural relic reached 220 centimeters. , which is obviously very different from modern dress. After experiments, she and her team modified the sleeve length and sleeve fat, and completed the design without changing the overall traditional style of the clothing, so that the clothing can meet the needs of "wearing it at work".
"Clothing is an important part of social life, and changes in clothing reflect profound changes in national development and national psychology. A strong national power provides a stage and support for cultural development and prosperity. Against this background, Hanfu has come to the forefront." Fan Yugang According to analysis, the popularity of Hanfu is the result of the combination of social psychological needs and the promotion of technological applications. "For example, new Chinese-style clothing represented by horse-faced skirts has enriched the public's daily life and value expression methods. It not only dynamically integrates China's excellent traditional culture into the public's daily life, but also enhances people's understanding of Identity with traditional culture and traditional aesthetics."
2. Entering the world of Hanfu is entering the "Hundred Gardens" of traditional culture
Nan Yu, a Hanfu enthusiast born in the 1990s, once taught in a primary school in Pingshan County, Yibin, Sichuan, and served as a Chinese teacher. Whenever they see her wearing Hanfu, the children know that the content of today’s Chinese class must be related to ancient poetry. Nan Yu could feel that every time she wore Hanfu to attend ancient poetry classes, the children would always be particularly engaged.
Nan Yu believes that dressing is a basic need in daily life, and clothing can be connected with all aspects of life. In her opinion, Hanfu is like a multifunctional key, opening the door to different categories of traditional culture for us. Some people have become fans of traditional clothing because they like Hanfu; others have entered the world of Hanfu because of their research on other traditional cultural categories. "Everyone may have different interests, but they all have the same love for traditional culture," she said.
People dressed in traditional costumes participated in a folklore performance and parade on Xinglong Old Street in Xuan'en County, Hubei Province. Published by Xinhua News Agency
Nan Yu also shared a story about the "Hanfu circle" with reporters: they call people who also like Hanfu "comrades". If you see "comrades" wearing Hanfu in your life, even if they are strangers, everyone will They will greet each other tacitly. "The younger generation gives the blessing gift to their elders. The rituals are different in different dynasties, different genders, and different statuses..." From Hanfu to ancient rituals, to other excellent Chinese traditional cultures contained in Hanfu, Young Hanfu enthusiasts do not simply "like to wear beautiful clothes and take photos". They have a deep knowledge and understanding of the traditional culture associated with Hanfu.
Liang Yan told reporters that the trend of Hanfu originated from the public's pursuit of the beauty of traditional clothing culture. The long and splendid ancient clothing culture is the basis for the emergence of Hanfu. Clothing culture is inextricably linked to traditional crafts, arts, etiquette, food, drama, etc. Entering the world of Hanfu is entering the "Hundred Gardens" of traditional culture, and this is the charm of Hanfu. It is the charm of excellent traditional culture, so behind the "Hanfu craze" is the return of Chinese aesthetics and the popularity of traditional culture.
In addition to Hanfu, traditional dramas, historical cultural relics, etc. have also frequently "out of the circle" and "out of the circle" in recent years. The "national craze" continues to heat up. People often lament that "the aesthetics of our ancestors are the most advanced." In Fan Yugang's view, although these popular phenomena have certain accidental factors, the reason is that the "national trend" is rooted in the soil of excellent traditional culture. "Traditional culture has approached the public in a variety of ways, especially young people's horizons. This is the best interpretation of the creative transformation and innovative development of China's excellent traditional culture." Fan Yugang said.
3. Let more people experience the beauty of Hanfu
About 10 years ago, traditional culture video blogger Zhao Yiwa began to try wearing Hanfu and take to the streets. At that time, there were relatively few "comrades" on the road. Nowadays, when you wear Hanfu and walk on the street, you will meet many like-minded people. Many passers-by will not hesitate to praise the Hanfu. Some will come up to take a photo with her and chat with her about ancient costumes. She deeply feels that the popularity of Hanfu is getting higher and higher.
During the visit, many Hanfu enthusiasts said that in recent years, people’s awareness of Hanfu has been increasing, which is inseparable from the attention and support from all walks of life for Hanfu and traditional culture. For example, the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League launched the "Chinese Costume Day" event. Every year on March 3rd of the lunar calendar, various activities are held to showcase the beauty of traditional ethnic costumes; at the beginning of the school year, Nanjing, Jiangsu Province held an "opening ceremony" for primary school students in the Confucius Temple. On the street, children are all wearing scholar-style robes; Shandong, Guangdong, Zhejiang, Sichuan and other places have successively launched Hanfu Culture Festival and other activities to attract more people to learn about traditional clothing culture...
Fan Yugang analyzed that the increase in the popularity of Hanfu is the result of the country's vigorous promotion of the inheritance of excellent traditional culture. People fully understand and are exposed to traditional culture.culture, and also re-understood the value of traditional culture.
In the rapeseed field of Wuhusihai Wetland Park in Pengshan District, Meishan, Sichuan, many Hanfu enthusiasts performed on the catwalk. Published by Xinhua News Agency
Zhao Yiwa believes that the rapid popularity of Hanfu in China in recent years is inseparable from the advancement of new media technology. She wants to take advantage of new media technology and platforms to promote Chinese culture represented by Hanfu to the world. "Some overseas ordinary people have relatively low awareness of Hanfu and other clothing, and they do not know much about the traditional Chinese culture behind it. Therefore, there is still a lot to be done to popularize Hanfu culture overseas." Zhao Yiwa's short message The videos are all produced in Chinese and English, and "From China" is often mentioned in English in his videos.
"These young people use new technologies and new methods to show 'who I am', which not only demonstrates our strong identification with our own cultural traditions and national identity, but also reflects the Chinese nation's pursuit of innovative values of being upright rather than conservative, and respecting the past rather than retrospecting. ." Fan Yugang believes that young people who use modern technology to innovatively express Hanfu not only have love and respect for traditional culture, but also show unlimited creativity and imagination, providing new opportunities and opportunities for the development of traditional culture. space.
As a lover of Hanfu, Nan Yu regards every time "Hanfu comes out" as a good opportunity to popularize Hanfu to others. She believes that "flowers and butterflies will come naturally" and beautiful things will always attract everyone's attention. "The sunny day is just right in spring. Wearing your favorite Hanfu and going on a spring date with friends is the easiest and most timely way to experience the charm of Hanfu." Nan Yu said.
