What are the pleats of the Hanfu horse-face skirt

What are the pleats of the Hanfu horse-face skirt

What are the pleats of the Hanfu horse-face skirt - Image 1

Recently, "new Chinese style outfits" have become popular

Ming Dynasty horse-faced skirt, mix and match with other items

Let you quickly master the "new Chinese style"

Launched by CCTV News and museums across the country

Cultural museum popular science product "Cultural Museum Calendar"

Today, let’s take a look

The "benchmark" of the horse-faced skirt handed down from the Ming Dynasty

Blue woven four-season floral satin skirt with gold makeup

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What do the patterns on the horse-faced skirt mean?

How beautiful can a horse-faced skirt be?

"Super eye-catching" popular science understandingOnce

What is a horse-faced skirt?

It became popular more than 600 years ago

It is one of the main skirt styles for women in ancient China ‍

In the Song Dynasty, the horse-faced skirt had begun to take shape

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△Drawing of horse-faced skirt

Horse-faced skirts in the Ming Dynasty were often decorated with skirts (lán)

(The bottom of the skirt and the knees are decorated with wide edges with various patterns, called "襕")

The patterns are diverse and have rich meanings

Animal patterns such as dragons and phoenix

Symbolizing good luck and good marriage

Plant patterns

Peonies represent wealth and chrysanthemums represent longevity

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△Ming dynasty red dark satin embroidered cloud python skirt (detail) collected by Shandong Museum

Yu Qin, Director of the Painting and Calligraphy Department of Shandong Museum

Said in an exclusive interview with a reporter from the main station

Compared with the horse-faced skirt of the Ming Dynasty

The styles of horse-faced skirts in the Qing Dynasty were more complicated

"The horse-faced skirt in the Ming Dynasty was basically fixed as

Several pairs of large pleats on the left and right

Women in the Qing Dynasty liked to dress on the side of their horse-faced skirts

Make fine pleats, even pleats"

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△Qing Dynasty red dark floral silk piled damask and gold embroidered horse face skirt, collected by the National Costume Museum

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△Qing Dynasty red dark floral silk piled damask and gold embroidered horse face skirt (detail) collected by National Costume Museum

Why is it called the "benchmark" of the Ming Dynasty horse-faced skirt?

This horse-faced skirt

It is the "star collection" of Shandong Museum

For the old collection of Confucius House

It is generally inferred that it is the costume of Mrs. Yanshenggong

(Yanshenggong is the hereditary title of Confucius’ eldest descendant)

It may also be the clothes of other distinguished women in the Confucius family

The weaving technology of this kind of floral satin has reached a level of

A pinnacle in the history of Chinese silk

Therefore it is called

The "benchmark" of the horse-faced skirt handed down from the Ming Dynasty

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Pink gauze skirt waist, green silk lace lace

Blue satin skirt material and gorgeous patterns

Combining wealth, elegance and luxury

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Take a closer look at the details

The skirt is decorated with various makeup patterns

The upper part is woven with golden branches and four seasons patterns

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There are three skirts on the lower part

From top to bottom

Weaving golden luan bird pattern and flower Zhai pattern

Flower Zhai Pattern and Bell Duo Feather Pattern

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Fabric color

We are also very particular about the arrangement and use of gold thread

It makes the whole dress shine⭐️

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This horse-faced skirt

The decorative satin used

It is the variety with the most complex weaving technology among Nanjing Yunjin

It can be called the pinnacle of Chinese silk craftsmanship

It still cannot be replaced by machines

A piece of material must be woven by two people at the same time

One person controls the pattern, and one person controls the color

You can only weave 5cm to 6cm at most in a day

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△The weaving process of "Zhuanghua Satin" In addition, another piece in the collection of Shandong Museum

White dark floral yarn embroidered bird pattern skirt

It is also the "White Moonlight" in the minds of many people

This horse-faced skirt is also from the Confucian collection

Its fabric is relatively stiff

The flower and bird pictures above are typical Shandong embroidery

Lu embroidery is different from other embroidery methods

The lines used are thick

The embroidered patterns are very three-dimensional

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△Ming Dynasty white dark flower gauze embroidered bird pattern skirt collected by Shandong Museum

The skirt is made of red, green, blue, yellow, black and other silk threads

Embroidery of rocks, bridges, flowing water, peonies and pomegranate flowers

Decorations such as butterflies, kingfishers, swallows, phoenixes, etc.

Filled with the breath of spring

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△Ming Dynasty white dark flower gauze embroidered bird pattern skirt (detail) Collection of Shandong Museum

There are new ways to wear horse-faced skirts

Ming Dynasty horse-faced skirt

Not only fashionable, but also practical and versatile

In the summer of Ming Dynasty

Wearing a long gown and a horse-faced skirt

Put on a refreshing vest

A fashionable outfit is complete

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now,""New Chinese style outfit" becomes popular

Horse-faced skirts are gradually integrated into daily life

It can be worn to work, shopping, eating and other occasions

Horse-faced skirts on the market

Most are divided into porous and non-porous

There are different ways to wear it

There are even new ways to dress up

There are various methods of tying

Double bow knot, back cross knot, one-line knot, single ear knot

Mix and match different tops for ever-changing styles

T-shirt + horse skirt, shirt + horse skirt

Cardigan + Horse Face Skirt, Sweater + Horse Face Skirt

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Horse-faced skirt popular in Ming and Qing Dynasties

Being worn by young people who are chasing fashion nowadays

This is the inheritance of Chinese aesthetics

It is also a blend of traditional culture and modern life