Picture ① At the "Experience China - Entering the Dubai Expo" event, actors performing Hanfu performances took a group photo outside the China Pavilion at the Dubai Expo in the United Arab Emirates.
(Xinhua News Agency)
Picture ② Young people dressed in Hanfu walk across the river trestle, preparing to go boating to enjoy the lotus. Photographed by Jiang Yi (China Economic Vision)
After years of development, Hanfu is moving from a niche circle to the mass market, becoming an important part of the national trend culture and national style economy, not only providing tourism, photography and other industries With new marketing ideas, immersive consumption featuring Hanfu elements such as ancient style script killing and ancient costume banquets are in the ascendant.
This year’s May Day holiday, the immersive Tang-style street life district “Chang’an Twelve Hours” opened in Xi’an. Many tourists specially put on Tang-made Hanfu and came to watch Tang arts and listen to Tang arts. Have fun and taste Tang food. Among the scattered ancient-style buildings, with fluttering clothes and flying skirts, the beauty of Hanfu is eye-catching.
After years of development, Hanfu is moving from a niche circle to the mass market and has become an important part of the national trend culture and national style economy. It not only provides new marketing ideas for tourism, photography and other industries, but also kills ancient style scripts. Immersive consumption featuring Hanfu elements, such as traditional Chinese costumes and banquets, is also in the ascendant.
The consumption of Hanfu is becoming more and more popular
“I used to wear Hanfu when walking on the street, and people often asked me where I was going to perform. Now more and more people Recognizing that this is Hanfu, many people can also tell the dynasty and form." Cao Xiaoyan, a garden landscape designer in Changzhi City, Shanxi Province, "got into" Hanfu as early as 2015. She deeply felt that in recent years, Hanfu has represented. The national style culture is prevalent, and society's acceptance of Hanfu continues to increase.
“I started by buying code-coded ready-made clothes. As I learned more about the shape and fabric of Hanfu, I started buying customized Hanfu and imported Hanfu.” Cao Xiaoyan introduced, “Incoming Hanfu is I buy the fabrics myself, draw the designs, and then find a tailor to make them. Spring and summer Hanfu cost between a few dozen yuan and three to four hundred yuan, while autumn and winter Hanfu made of wool, cashmere and other fabrics are more expensive.”
In addition, Cao Xiaoyan will also buy some Hanfu items with original designs and complex craftsmanship, such as Hanfu made of gold woven fabrics, imitation flowers, chemical fiber and other fabrics. "The item is tailor-made for me by the merchantCustomized, the price of one piece is more than 1,000 yuan. "Cao Xiaoyan said.
Zhao Jing from Xianyang City, Shaanxi Province prefers Hanfu made in the Song Dynasty and Hanfu made in the Ming Dynasty made of cotton and linen. She said, "Hanfu made of silk, tapestry and other fabrics and techniques are more popular. "I am delicate and have high requirements for washing and care methods and wearing scenarios. I prefer cotton and linen Hanfu that are easy to care for." 3 pieces of Hanfu, the price ranges from 300 yuan to 600 yuan. “In addition to wearing Hanfu when gathering with friends, traveling or on holidays, I also mix and match Hanfu with ordinary clothes in my daily life. "Zhao Jing told reporters that she owns more than 50 pieces of Hanfu, most of which she purchased from e-commerce platforms.
With the attention paid to the wearing of Hanfu in programs such as "National Treasure", the roly-poly lady wearing Hanfu" "Out of the Circle" has become popular. With the catalysis and dissemination of social platforms and the boost of e-commerce platforms, Hanfu, which originally only existed in niche circles, is moving into daily life and the mass market, gaining the favor of more and more consumers.
On the Douyin platform, the total number of short videos labeled with Hanfu has exceeded 68 billion times. According to the relevant person in charge of Douyin, from January 2022 to the present, the number of merchants selling Hanfu on the platform has increased compared with last year. During the same period, it increased by 239%. During the "Douyin Trend Oriental Season" event from April 23 to May 4, the sales of Hanfu on the Douyin e-commerce platform increased by 312% year-on-year.
"Hanfu consumption. The market is characterized by youth, femininity and stratification, and Hanfu consumption behavior is polarized between interest-oriented collection consumption and casual one-time consumption. " Tian Hui, associate professor at the School of Cultural Industry Management of Communication University of China, believes that as China's excellent traditional culture radiates vitality and vitality of the times, Hanfu consumption awareness is getting higher and higher, and the market acceptance of Hanfu has expanded in breadth and depth.
Expressing cultural identity
“I fell in love with Hanfu at first, I just thought they were beautiful. "Recalling the reason why she "got into" Hanfu, Zhao Jing said this. Similar to many Hanfu enthusiasts, she was attracted by the exquisite Hanfu in costume TV series, and then began to understand the Hanfu culture and placed orders frequently.
The traditional Chinese culture carried by Hanfu is also what fascinates many consumers. Cao Xiaoyan believes that Hanfu is a clothing carrier that displays traditional culture. Ordinary people can intuitively feel its cultural charm and are willing to display and spread it in their lives.
“Hanfu consumption has the characteristics of youth. Consumers have witnessed the strengthening of national power in the process of growing up, and their deep-rooted national pride and cultural identity have inspired their confidence and love for local brands. "Tian Hui said that young consumers pay more attention to self-expression. Hanfu not only satisfies young consumers' love and expression of local culture, but also satisfies their deep-seated demands for personalization and acquisition of identity.
Hanfu lovers call each other "Tongpao", which comes from "How can I say no clothes?" "I wear the same clothes as my son." They use Hanfu as a bond to make friends with people with similar interests.Make friends and build group identity.
Cao Xiaoyan told reporters that when she first "entered" Hanfu, Hanfu was a very niche hobby. She never met "comrades" and almost "quit". "It wasn't until the Qiqiao Festival in 2017 that I saw a recruitment post for the Hanfu event on a local Tieba, and met a group of like-minded partners, so I maintained my love for Hanfu."
Guangzhou girl Liu Xueer also " Encouraged by his colleagues, he quit his job as a clerk in his hometown company to start a business in Hangzhou, and founded Fengshang Traditional Clothing Design Studio in 2019.
Liu Xueer told reporters that taking advantage of the east wind of Hanfu, she started her own business relatively smoothly. In September 2019, she launched the "Fengshang" brand's first original design Ming Dynasty horse-face skirt - tourmaline green swastika on Taobao. The earth spirit dog presents peach blossoms and looks at the moon with a gold woven skirt, priced at 1,188 yuan. "More than 500 pieces were sold that year, and it is still the 'unavailable' style on the second-hand trading platform."
Since the store opened, "Fengshang" has launched more than 20 styles of Ming-made Hanfu. During the epidemic, On average, each model can maintain sales of more than 100 pieces.
It takes several months from the design and drawing of a Hanfu to factory proofing, revision and finalization, and then to the weaving factory to weave and dye the fabric. After it is put on the shelves for sale, it takes several months for tailors to start making the finished product. "The cost of designing a new model ranges from 30,000 to 100,000 yuan depending on the complexity of the process and the number of revisions. Custom weaving and dyeing of a batch of fabrics requires at least 200,000 to 300,000 yuan in working capital." Liu Xueer said frankly. , the epidemic has brought certain pressure on capital flows.
When it comes to the future, Liu Xueer is very confident. "Hanfu, a kind of clothing that carries the aesthetics of traditional Chinese culture and national identity, is very popular among young people. It has gradually become a cultural phenomenon and an emerging industry that integrates fashion and tradition. I believe that more and more people will buy Hanfu in the future and engage in Merchants with original designs will have better development. ”
Show elements of the times
With the rapid growth in the number of Hanfu enthusiasts and the market size, Related consumer markets have also ushered in new opportunities for development.
From the Xitang Hanfu Culture Week, which has been held for 9 consecutive years, to the Wuhan Happy Valley "National Style Dimension Festival Hanfu Appreciation of Spring" themed event, the Beijing Flower Dynasty Hanfu Culture Festival, and to many scenic spots With the announcement of "free admission for wearing Hanfu", tourist attractions have become high-frequency usage scenarios of Hanfu, and the business of leasing or selling Hanfu has also become a "secondary consumption point" in many scenic spots.
Consumers are no longer satisfied with the check-in model of "Hanfu + photo taking". For this reason, many travel companies have launched experiential projects with Hanfu as the core. In March this year, at a city-wide community event held by Mafengwo in Yuyuantan Park in Beijing, participants dressed in Hanfu and solved puzzles as "Flower Gods" during the Flower Festival, enjoying a "time-travel" experience while outing the park. Various creative products not only contribute ticket revenue to scenic spots, but also revitalize the tourism market.
In addition to travel, "Hanfu+" also provides beauty and fashion products, weddings, catering, photography, etiquette training and other industries have brought new marketing ideas, and immersive consumption focusing on Hanfu elements such as Hanfu photo shoots, Hanfu-themed scripts, and Hanfu afternoon tea is in the ascendant.
Stylist Zhang Zhili has been in the makeup industry for 9 years, mainly engaged in makeup work for dance drama shooting, advertising shooting, personal portraits, and stage shows. In 2017, she transitioned from modern makeup to ancient style makeup.
“From design, makeup and hair to clothes and accessories, it takes about 2 hours to complete a complete set of ancient-style makeup, and the fee is about 2,000 yuan.” Zhang Zhili said that initially doing ancient-style makeup was a hobby As a result, it happened to catch up with the Hanfu boom, so the business was relatively smooth. Nowadays, the number of orders for ancient-style makeup in advertising shoots and personal portraits continues to grow, and events such as Hanfu catwalk shows in various places are becoming more frequent, and invitations to her makeup are being sent to her one after another.
This has put forward higher professional requirements for Zhang Zhili. "The makeup of the Han Dynasty was simple and grand, the makeup of the Tang Dynasty was graceful and luxurious, and the makeup of the Song Dynasty was restrained and elegant." Zhang Zhili told reporters, "I learned about makeup by reading professional books, visiting museums, referring to murals and ancient paintings, and consulting experts. Try to be as close to history as possible and restore the characters. We hope that consumers can understand the long-standing traditional culture through various ancient styles, so that traditional culture can be better implemented in daily life."
"Breaking the circle" of Hanfu. The economy has allowed traditional culture to enter more consumption scenarios. "To maintain the long-term popularity of Hanfu and related consumption, innovative thinking and contemporary expression are required, both in terms of the in-depth exploration of cultural connotations and the communication of cultural connotations, as well as the design, quality and even brand development of the products themselves." Tian Hui believes that only by taking root in a deep understanding of cultural values, taking the elements of the times as the starting point, and resonating with the aesthetics and emotions of the target consumer groups can traditional culture obtain a consumption soil for sustainable development. (Economic Daily reporter Zeng Shiyang Lei Ting)
