Song brocade vests are paired with jeans, shirts are paired with horse skirts, and elements such as stand-up collars and cloud shoulders are "introduced" into daily attire... This spring and summer, "new Chinese-style" clothing continues to be popular and has become a new phenomenon in the domestic consumer market. What creates the “traffic password” of national style clothing? How does "national trend" become a craze? The reporter went into the first-line market and interviewed all parties in the industry.
The clothing market has become popular, and the "national trend" has "swept" in the clothing market
Handmade buttoned cardigans, Xiangyun gauze dresses... "post-90s" white-collar workers Ms. Wang added a lot of "new Chinese-style" clothing to her Taobao shopping cart. She said that since last year, she has become obsessed with Chinese-style outfits and has collected almost every type of popular trendy product. “When shopping and traveling, I always choose ‘new Chinese style’ to match, which is both fashionable and interesting.”
On April 18, tourists wearing Hanfu took photos by the West Lake in Hangzhou. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Han Chuanhao
Since this year, "New Chinese Style" has continued to be popular. Walking in the streets and alleys, you often see people wearing various national costumes. On platforms such as Douyin and Xiaohongshu, “new Chinese style” continues to become a hot topic. Kuaishou e-commerce data shows that in the first quarter of this year, orders for “new Chinese” style products increased by 700% year-on-year. The order volume of Hanfu category products increased by nearly 300% year-on-year.
“After half a year of placing our orders, the compound annual growth rate of revenue exceeds 100%.” Lin Qi, the intangible inheritor of horse-faced skirt making skills and founder of the “Living on the Left” brand, told reporters that he The production and promotion of horse-faced skirts began in 2016. At that time, only a dozen pieces were sold a year. In just a few years, the company's annual sales of horse-faced skirts have reached nearly 100,000 pieces. "The market has changed a lot." She said that now, the brand's customers not only include people with higher spending power, but also include a large number of young people.
Song brocade, which carries a rich history and culture, has also become the "top trend" in "new Chinese style" clothing.
In the production workshop of Suzhou Shangjiukai Silk Technology and Culture Co., Ltd., pieces of Song brocade fabrics with exquisite patterns are rolling off the production line one after another. Wu Jianhua, chairman of the company, said that market demand has surged, the company has maintained full production capacity, and expanded its looms to more than 100 units. It is expected that in August this year, the daily production capacity will reach about 3,000 meters.
"CountryThe emergence of fashionable clothing is closely related to the popularity of traditional culture. Consumers not only pay for clothing, but also recognize the aesthetic significance and cultural value it carries. This is an intuitive manifestation of cultural confidence. " Yang Xiaodong, full-time vice president of the China National Garment Association, believes that Chinese-style clothing has become a new track for the industry. "We must seize the opportunity to let Chinese-style clothing better enter the market and life. "
New, cross-border integration unlocks the "traffic password"
Behind the popularity of "new Chinese-style" clothing, there are new changes in the industry.
New design, organic fusion of tradition and modernity——
Today, horse-faced skirts from history have more diverse presentations: from long skirts to eight-point skirts and six-point skirts, Changes in length adapt to more occasions; from thick wool to light cotton, linen, and silk, the improvement in texture meets the needs of wearing scenes in different seasons; patterns, tailoring, colors... are integrating more and more fashion elements , the horse-faced skirt has better plasticity.
On April 11, Chinese clothing enthusiasts selected accessories at the Chinese style market at the "World Expo Source" in Shanghai. Photo by Xinhua News Agency reporter Liu Ying
From cheongsam to Hanfu, behind almost every "hot item" is a reinterpretation of tradition. "We invested a lot of time and money, collected seven to eight hundred traditional Song brocade patterns, studied the weaving technology, and innovated on this basis to make it more in line with modern people's aesthetics." Wu Jianhua said.
"'New Chinese-style' clothing is about finding a balance between tradition and fashion. Through continuous polishing and innovation, Chinese style is made more international." Qian Mengyuan, chairman of the clothing brand Heng Yun Yaxu, believes .
New technology continues to meet new needs -
Innovation in fabrics has enhanced the "new Chinese style" wearing experience. Wu Jianhua told reporters that while modernizing the Song brocade weaving process through electronic jacquard machines, the company also conducted research and development on elastic Song brocade to improve the wrinkle resistance, color rendering and comfort of the fabric, making it more suitable for modern wear.
The application of digitalization promotes the organic connection between supply and demand. Improve the efficiency of developing "hot styles" through big data analysis; adopt a "virtual + reality" model for fashion releases; accelerate the application of industrial Internet to make flexible manufacturing more popular... A series of practices are being carried outThe industry unfolds.
It is worth noting that many companies have increased co-research and co-creation with supply chain partners. From Haining Xucun to Suzhou Shengze, some industrial clusters have used their manufacturing advantages to create new IP and promote the integration of clothing and cultural tourism.
“Many of the ‘play methods’ of ‘new Chinese style’ are different from those of the traditional clothing industry.” Industry insiders believe that national style clothing will expand more possibilities in cross-border development.
Stability, keep the core and let the "national trend" continue to become a craze
"New Chinese style" clothing is developing rapidly, but there are also good and bad products on the market. . Industry insiders believe that as the scale of the industry expands, more attention should be paid to improving quality, and more efforts should be made to purify the market environment and strengthen industry chain collaboration.
“I’m not worried that there will be no market for Song brocade, but I’m worried that it will be damaged.” Wu Jianhua said that since this year, many imitations have appeared on the market. Although they look similar, the craftsmanship and fabrics are very different. The company will weave brand symbols on the edge of each piece of fabric to resist counterfeiting and other behaviors. It will also research high-tech anti-counterfeiting methods, promote the formulation of standards and prepare for the establishment of a Song Brocade Appraisal Center.
“Enterprises invest a lot of energy in researching products and technologies. Once they are shoddily manufactured and a large number of inferior products appear, it will destroy the normal business order and is not conducive to establishing a correct understanding of culture.” Lin Qi suggested Introduce policies to promote the construction of benchmark brands, improve relevant regulations, and establish a quality-oriented value orientation.
Qian Mengyuan believes that enterprises themselves must be determined, work steadily, deeply explore the connotation of traditional culture, improve various research and development and design capabilities such as fabrics, colors, processes, structures, etc., and provide more good products from the supply side. The product.
Not long ago, the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology and the Ministry of Commerce jointly organized the 2024 "Three Products" national campaign to encourage local governments, industry associations, e-commerce platforms, etc. to collaborate and empower, and support the docking of online and offline sales platforms Key manufacturing enterprises will give priority to promoting high-quality national fashion brands.
“We established the National Style Clothing Special Committee a few years ago. The next step will be to provide professional guidance to designers, increase support for industrial clusters, and link up from multiple perspectives of culture, products, and markets. Promote high-quality development of the industry," Yang Xiaodong said. (Xinhuanet)
