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Hanfu has been popular for nearly 20 years. While gaining a large number of fans, the market has also spawned a number of Hanfu stylist. What skills does a Hanfu stylist need to have? What are the requirements for practitioners? What are the prospects for this industry? With these questions in mind, the reporter interviewed nine Hanfu stylists in Kunming.The market is booming
"Hanfu craze"
Having given birth to a vigorous Hanfu style Demand
Hanfu not only refers to the costumes of the Han Dynasty, but also the traditional costumes of the entire Han nation that have been passed down and evolved over thousands of years. Changes in clothing are often the "forerunner" of cultural changes. From a certain perspective, the Hanfu of different dynasties is the epitome of that period of history, and Hanfu carries the profound heritage of Chinese culture.
On November 22, 2003, an electric power worker named Wang Letian walked on the streets of Zhengzhou wearing Hanfu. Compared with the gorgeous and diverse Hanfu now, the Hanfu Wang Letian wore at that time was very "rudimentary" , doesn’t even fit. At that time, some news media reported that "Han costumes that had been extinct for more than 300 years have reappeared on the streets of China," which attracted widespread attention at home and abroad. It was this report that made many people interested in traditional clothing with a long history and rich colors. "Wang Letian wore Hanfu and walked on the street. That was the first time I got to know Hanfu. From then on, I developed a strong interest in Hanfu, and then I got into it. I was not financially independent in high school, and continued to follow Hanfu until college. As I got more opportunities to get in touch with them, I became more and more interested in them, and now I’m a makeup girl.” Fusheng is a part-time Hanfu stylist, and people in the industry call them “makeup girls.”
After the "Wang Letian Incident", more and more people gradually understand and accept Hanfu, and fall in love with Hanfu culture. In 2018, in order to promote the beauty of traditional culture, the Central Committee of the Communist Youth League and the website bilibili jointly launched the "Chinese Chinese Costume Day" event. Hanfu enthusiasts across the country also hold many Hanfu activities every year, such as wearing Hanfu to gather and visit gardens during the Hua Chao Festival, Shangsi Festival, Chinese Valentine's Day, Mid-Autumn Festival and other festivals. Now, more and more people have begun to wear Hanfu, tie up their hair in traditional buns, and walk in the streets.
The number of people who like Hanfu continues to increase, and the Hanfu economy is also booming. Data from iiMedia Research shows that from 2015 to 2018, Chinese Hanfu enthusiasts continued to grow. By 2018, the number of Hanfu enthusiasts reached 2.042 million. Such a large group supports a consumption scale of more than 1 billion yuan. In 2019, the number of Hanfu fans increased significantly, reaching 3.561 million. Data shows that from 2015 to 2020, the size of China's Hanfu market increased sharply from 190 million yuan to 6.36 billion yuan. It is expected that the size of the Hanfu market will exceed 10 billion yuan in 2021, and there will still be considerable room for growth in the future.
The craze for Hanfu has also created a strong demand for Hanfu makeup. “Many people like to wear Hanfu to take photos, and makeup is an integral part of the wholeIt is an indispensable part of the image, but there are many things to pay attention to when making Hanfu makeup, and not everyone can do it. Therefore, some people gradually transformed from Hanfu enthusiasts into Hanfu stylists. " said Nan Mu, the owner of Hanjinge Hanfu Museum and a Hanfu stylist.
MiTangJi Studio provides pictures of interviewees who restored portraits of hand-made Hanfu
Practitioners
Most Hanfu stylists are Young women
From enthusiasts to practitioners
"2021 China Hanfu Industry Status and Consumption Behavior Data Research" released by iiMedia Consulting Report" shows that 64.8% of Chinese Hanfu consumers are female users, and users aged 26-40 account for more than 60%. The age structure of Hanfu stylists also tends to be younger. Among the nine Hanfu stylists interviewed, 7 were born in the 80s and 90s, and the other two were born in the 00s. "Most of the people who like Hanfu are young girls, and some of them have changed careers because of their love. They are all very young. Most of the Hanfu stylists around me are born in the 80s or 90s, and there are more and more people born in the 00s." Yue'er, a Hanfu stylist at the makeup studio, introduced.
In the interview, it was found that Hanfu stylists chose this profession because they have a strong interest in Hanfu and makeup. "I first studied modern makeup. When I first came into contact with Hanfu, I thought I would never fall into the 'Hanfu pit'. But as I learned more about it, I found that Hanfu is really beautiful, especially the historical and cultural heritage it contains. , I feel that Hanfu has a magical power, and I am willing to buy it. "Because I like Hanfu and want to make Hanfu a career, Nanmu opened a Hanfu experience center.
Most Hanfu stylists felt the joy of "wearing bedsheets" when they were young, but when they grew up, they lost their "resistance" to the fairy-like Hanfu. "For those of us born in the 1990s who like Hanfu, there should be no one who has never worn bedsheets. When we were young, when we watched "The Legend of White Snake", we would wear bedsheets to imitate the characters in the TV series. Maybe at that time, we had buried it in our hearts. A seed of Hanfu," said Yu'er, a Hanfu stylist at Mitangji Traditional Makeup Studio.
Photo provided by the interviewees of the donors who were restored by Mi Tang Ji Studio
Occupational requirements
Understand the makeup and costumes of each dynasty
p>She is a hairpin girl and she is also a tailor
The styles of Hanfu are divided into Qin and Han, Wei and Jin, Tang, Song and Ming Dynasties according to the dynasties. Each has distinct characteristics. "During the Qin Dynasty, clothing was roughly divided into two types: curved and straight. During the Han Dynasty, China's economic, military, and cultural development were unprecedentedly prosperous, which indirectly derived 'Hanfu'. During the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, the social atmosphere was free and unrestrained, although the The clothing style of the Han Dynasty became more elegant. The shapes of the Tang Dynasty were more open, and the clothing was more gorgeous. During the Song Dynasty, influenced by Cheng Zhu Neo-Confucianism, the clothing was more elegant. The tradition, "inherited from the Zhou and Han Dynasties, and from the Tang and Song dynasties", re-formulated the clothing system to form the Ming Dynasty Hanfu, which is dignified, gentle and gorgeous." Yue'er introduced the different forms of Hanfu.
Different shapes of Hanfu have corresponding makeup and styles. "Wearing a set of Hanfu made in the Ming Dynasty, it is impossible to wear Tang Dynasty makeup or a Tang Dynasty hairstyle." Yu'er said that in the view of professional makeup artists, if you want to wear Hanfu well, makeup and styling are necessary. Indispensable, helping customers change clothes, put on makeup and do their hair is their daily job. "Generally, Hanfu makeup can be completed in less than an hour. If you pursue exquisiteness or require original reproduction, it will take longer." Yu'er said.
The makeup of different dynasties also has its own characteristics. "The makeup of the Qin and Han Dynasties was light and elegant. During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, women liked to apply lead powder, draw long eyebrows, and add red lips. During the Tang Dynasty, the makeup was strong and bright, and they liked dimples and flowers. There were dozens of eyebrow shapes. Women in the Song Dynasty liked to wear crowns, Half-lip makeup, slender eyebrows, and light and elegant Ming Dynasty makeup are just the foundation of our profession," Yue'er introduced.
The work of Hanfu stylists is generally divided into two categories, one is modern and the other is restoration. Yang Yuan, a Hanfu stylist at the Yuyang Pavilion Hanfu Museum, said that modern Hanfu makeup is based on tradition and incorporates modern aesthetics. This kind of style only requires beauty, and the shape is more changeable and "more fairy-like." Yang Yuan said, "Restored type We are very particular about the makeup of the characters. We usually restore the costumes of the characters based on the scrolls, murals, pottery figurines, etc. of each dynasty. We can now restore them.Most of them are the costumes of characters on the murals in Dunhuang Mogao Grottoes, Fahai Temple, Yongle Palace and other places. ”
This requires Hanfu makeup artists to learn a lot of historical and cultural knowledge. “From the first day I learned about Hanfu makeup, I never stopped learning. From unearthed cultural relics to Chinese painting albums, I studied carefully Research. "Yue'er said.
In order to complete rigorous restoration, Hanfu stylists have also developed more skills. "To restore, many costumes, headwear and accessories cannot be bought, and you need to make them yourself. The most basic skill is to make wig bags, and the advanced skill is to make headdresses. Some headdresses are very complex in craftsmanship, and are even intangible cultural heritage craftsmanship. The techniques I often use include imitation velvet flowers, entangled flowers, imitation emerald green, heat shrink, bead editing and imitation seal carving, etc. Because we often make hair accessories, we are also called "hairpin girls". Recently I have been studying clay sculpture, and I have thought about using clay sculptures to make gold locks, using clay tires to shape them, and attaching them with gold foil, agate, and beads. It looks pretty cool. "Yue'er introduced that restorative makeup also requires stylists to be able to make clothing. "Some clothing factories can't do it, so we can only do it ourselves. When we restored some of the donors in the "Dudu's Wife Worshiping the Buddha" in Cave 130 of the Tang Dynasty Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, we made all the costumes ourselves. In this industry, whether it’s makeup, hair, or clothing and accessories, you have to keep learning and be patient. "Yu'er said.
Handmade headwear reporter at Hanjinge Hanfu Museum: Xue Ruijuan
Professional characteristics
Part-time and full-time
Business has off-season and peak season
There are no gender or age requirements for Hanfu stylists, no professional qualifications, and no industry standards. If you want to win The market mainly depends on your own cultivation and skills.
Although the professional threshold is low, Hanfu stylists also need a lot of learning. During the interview, it was found that full-time Hanfu stylists generally receive systematic study for more than two years and invest more than 50,000 yuan, while part-timers invest slightly less time and cost. "I studied for four years. At that time, there was no place to teach Hanfu makeup in Kunming, so I went to Hangzhou and then to Beijing for further study. I spent a total of almost 200,000 yuan. Learning makeup is a very expensive thing." An introduction to the Hanfu stylist of Yuesi Style.
Nanmu also has a deep understanding of the high tuition fees. "We went to learn Hanfu makeup from Teacher Yang Shuyun, who is known as the 'best comb in the world'. Because the teacher himself is very good, the course fee is naturally not cheap. The cost of one course is about 10,000 yuan, and we took four courses at that time. Five courses are quite expensive. I will continue to study when I have time, so I will continue to spend money to learn.”
In the interview, it was found that the vast majority of Hanfu stylists encounter orders. The problem of unstable quantity.
In addition to full-time Hanfu stylists who run experience centers or studios, there are a large number of part-timers. "About three years ago, I started to be interested in Hanfu. I watched some tutorials and simply imitated it. Later I had the opportunity to study in Hangzhou for a while. After graduation, I joined a labor service company as an accountant, so I could only work part-time." Introduced by part-time Hanfu stylist Mian Mian.
Most part-time Hanfu stylists can only take orders on weekends and holidays. "Generally, after receiving an order, we must first communicate with the customer to understand their requirements for shape and style, and provide some suggestions. Finally, we determine the time and place for makeup." Said Qiya, a part-time Hanfu stylist. The number of orders received by part-time workers is also unstable. “The customers are mainly introduced by friends or cooperative photographers. Sometimes there is one order a week, and sometimes more than a dozen orders can be completed in a month. The time for receiving orders is not fixed, and the order volume is also variable. It will be stable, so I don’t expect to make money through part-time work, it’s more of a hobby,” Mian said.
Full-time Hanfu stylists also face the problem of off-season and peak season. "There are generally more Hanfu activities in the first half of the year, such as the Flower Festival and Chinese Costume Day. When there are many activities, you may have to be busy at the right time. When there are no activities, it is more leisurely. I went to participate two days ago.' For the 2021 Hanfu Festival Guangzhou event, I started preparing for makeup, makeup, and makeup at around 4 a.m., and I was busy until late at night the next day, and it lasted for three or four days, "Yiyuan said.
Industry concerns
Pricing confusion
Infringements often occur
Without professional standards, the professionalism of Hanfu stylists varies greatly. In the absence of industry standards, the fees charged by Hanfu stylists vary from 70 to 80 to thousands of yuan.
Searching for Hanfu makeup on Meituan shows results including Hanfu styling studios, costume photo studios, and even nail salons. In some nail salons, a Hanfu makeup without costume only costs 70 to 80 yuan, while in Hanfu styling studios, the price of makeup with costume and headgear is mostly within 400 yuan.
In Chengdu, Hangzhou and other cities where the Hanfu market is relatively good, the Hanfu makeup products listed on Meituan cost as little as two to three hundred yuan, and as much as thousands of yuan. "Compared with Kunming, the Hanfu market in cities such as Hangzhou and Chengdu is better. In Kunming, a complete Hanfu make-up, including clothing, makeup and hair, only costs three to four hundred yuan, which may not reach the level of other places. A fraction of the fee. Many peers are engaging in price wars in order to grab the market." Yuesizao.Introduced by Chen Si, a stylish Hanfu stylist.
In addition to varying pricing and vicious competition among peers, there are also some infringements in the Hanfu styling industry. Some unscrupulous businesses will steal the makeup pictures of their peers to negotiate cooperation with others. "A colleague took our restoration makeup renderings to take an order. After taking the order, she couldn't do it herself, so she had to come to us. We were very angry and did not help her. Her behavior has violated our legitimate rights and interests. . There are many similar situations, so the makeup renderings we send out now will be watermarked," Yue'er said. "There are no industry regulations now, which allows these infringements to be exploited. On the whole, these behaviors will destroy the image and order of the industry and create a vicious cycle." Talking about this, Yu'er felt a little resentful.
Metropolitan Times all-media reporter: Xue Ruijuan
Editor: Bi Qun
Editor: Zhou Xiaoxue
Final review: Qian Hongbing
