Xinhua Newspaper·New Jiangsu News (Reporter Hua Cheng) The Jinhu Hanfu cultural consumption season is in full swing. Many people are attracted to the Dutch capital, wearing Hanfu to eat delicious food, taking photos under landmarks, and posting in "circles of friends". Very busy. Hanfu is even hotter than the weather. Someone asked, are modern Hanfu the same as ancient Hanfu? What does the current popularity of Hanfu mean? In response to these questions, clothing history experts and market operators gave corresponding interpretations.
Traditional clothing is divided into grades
Huang Qiang, a distinguished professor at the School of Art of Jiangsu Open University, is an expert in the history of clothing. He has published "Dress Etiquette", "History of Chinese Costume Painting" and "Chinese Underwear". A series of monographs such as "History" and "A Hundred Battles on the Yellow Sand Wearing Golden Armor".
He told the "New Jiangsu" media reporter that Hanfu refers to traditional Chinese clothing, which has long appeared in ancient classics. "The Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun hung down their clothes and the world was ruled." This means that Hanfu began with the Yellow Emperor. Yao and Shun. From the Xia, Shang and Zhou dynasties, to the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, and later to the Manchu and Qing dynasties, the costumes of each dynasty have their own characteristics. For example, the "deep clothes" of the Qin and Han Dynasties allowed the body to be hidden, with clothes on top and clothes on the bottom, which not only combined the two into one, but also maintained the boundary of being divided into two. It is characterized by cross-collar, that is, the front of the clothes intersects on the left and right, and the body is wide and the sleeves are large.
(Made in the Northern Song Dynasty·Ruskirt)
Wei and Jin Dynasty costumes are characterized by broad robes and sleeves, which are full of chic and elegant style. The official uniforms of the Sui and Tang Dynasties were robes with round necks and narrow sleeves, while women wore underskirts, with short tops and long skirts tied high at the waist to the armpits, making them look graceful and gorgeous.
In the Tang Dynasty, the color system also appeared, using the color of clothing to indicate the level of official positions. Red, scarlet, and purple are the colors of nobility, while green, blue, and cyan are the colors of humiliation. Therefore, there is a poem by Bai Juyi, "Who weeps the most in this seat? Jiangzhou Sima's green shirt is wet."
The overall characteristics of traditional Chinese clothing are: crossed collars, wide shirts, large sleeves, and robes. Short clothes and small attire are mostly used by the common people, while those who are officials and the famous Qingliu mainly wear robes. Matching them include clothing colors, fabrics, patterns, accessories, etc. Silk and satin, colorful, all different according to the identity of the wearer. There are more restrictions on the color and fabric of clothes for the common people. White, black, and brown are mostly used by the common people and low-level servants, so they are called "Zao Li" and "White Clothes". Depend onIt can be seen that traditional clothing has the function of "differentiating grades, distinguishing noble and inferior" and conveying etiquette and civilization.
Hanfu is not the same as traditional clothing
(Han-made · Quju deep clothing)
According to Professor Huang Qiang, there are differences in the concept of Hanfu (traditional Chinese clothing) recorded in ancient books.
Traditional Chinese costumes include not only the Han costumes of the Han people, but also the costumes of ethnic minorities that have been Hanized. In other words, even if they are ethnic minorities, as long as they live in the land of China, the clothes they wear fall into the category of traditional Chinese clothes. Today's Hanfu means more only the clothing worn by the Han nationality before the Ming Dynasty (including the Ming Dynasty), especially the clothing exclusive to the Han people.
From a time span perspective, Chinese traditional clothing refers to the continuity of inheritance that has never been interrupted from the Yellow Emperor to the Manchu Qing Dynasty. The current Hanfu does not include the clothing of the Yuan and Qing dynasties, as well as the clothing of non-Han countries in history.
From the perspective of style and fabrics, ancient costumes were worn according to the wearer’s identity, rank, status, occasions (such as sacrifices, going to court, office), etc., and the patterns, fabrics, and accessories were different. .
Modern Hanfu should be called "imitation traditional clothing"
(Made in Ming Dynasty·Coat Skirt)
Professor Huang Qiang believes that modern imitation products have a vague sense of era, and it is impossible to distinguish the dynasty, whether it is a Tang Dynasty costume or a Song Dynasty costume; it is difficult to distinguish the grade, and it is difficult to distinguish whether it is an official. What you wear, returnIt is worn by ordinary people; it is impossible to judge the occasion, whether it is a fashion for work or a fashion for off work; it is difficult to reflect the culture of clothing, and the patterns and decorations of traditional clothing have different connotations. Therefore, although many Hanfus today have some traditional costume shapes, they incorporate many modern elements in the production process. This is a kind of remade clothing that is added or changed according to the intention of the designer or operator. It is not the same as traditional clothing. It should be more accurately called "imitation traditional clothing".
Professor Huang Qiang pointed out that clothing, as a kind of culture, must be inherited and promoted. In public places, one must not be too "willful" to avoid being nondescript and causing ridicule, especially in traditional Chinese studies charity activities. Including opening ceremony, growth ceremony and other occasions, be sure to wear Hanfu culture correctly and explain it thoroughly.
Huang Qiang added that historical dramas with accurate dates, as cultural products for public consumption, should also be rigorous in terms of props and costumes. They should not make them up just for the sake of aesthetics, and "seeking convenience" is not allowed. Taken.
"Chinese style" clothing will become a mainstream brand
Guo Zaiquan and Professor Huang Qiang have similar views. He has been engaged in Hanfu work for nearly 20 years and is the founder of Qifengge Hanfu. Now he has opened a Hanfu cultural exhibition hall in Wuhu. The museum displays pieces of men's and women's clothing from the Han, Tang, Song and Ming periods, and displays the clothing through pictures and texts. Its origin and evolution.
(Hanfu Culture Exhibition Hall)
He revealed to the "New Jiangsu" media reporter that all the Hanfu in his store are designed by himself. Sometimes, in order to make the details realistic, he has to study unearthed cultural relics, listen to expert reports, go to the library to check information, go to the museum to watch exhibitions, etc.
He has experienced the transformation of Hanfu from niche to popular. In 2006, he sold hundreds of sets of Hanfu a year. In 2008, the number increased to several thousand sets. Now, his sales volume is more than 10,000 sets a year.
According to Guo Zaiquan, Hanfu has the characteristics of "cross-collar collar and right lapel" and "flattering clothes with wide sleeves". Overall, women's clothing is selling better than men's clothing. In the past, clothing from the Han and Tang dynasties sold better, but now clothing from the Song and Ming dynasties are more popular. In his sales data, southerners are more enthusiastic about buying Hanfu than northerners. During the Song and Ming dynasties,Modern clothing is more suitable for southerners and has better sales.
Guo Zaiquan believes that with the development of my country's national strength and the continuous improvement of its international status, cultural pride has gradually increased, and more and more people choose to wear Hanfu, which is a manifestation of national self-confidence. At the same time, Hanfu is not only beautiful in form, but also has profound heritage. It is an excellent carrier to display the splendid civilization and long culture of China. Everyone has a love for beauty. Regardless of men and women, wearing Hanfu can become a beautiful scenery.
(Guo Zaiquan introduces the characteristics of clothing to guests)
In addition, with the rise of short video platforms, some people who love Hanfu instantly became "Internet celebrities", which to a certain extent has contributed to the situation. He firmly believes that modern "Chinese style" clothing with Hanfu elements will become a mainstream clothing brand and a new fashion.
