China News Client, Beijing, November 10 (Reporter Song Yusheng) From several ancient comics by the comic author @oldxian to the suits in the dress-up game "Shining and Warm", to actor Xu Kai's photos posted online Recently, the topic of ancient costumes has frequently become a topic of discussion among netizens.
Many netizens have this question: "Is this a 'Hanfu' or a 'Hanfu'?"
Screenshots from Weibo
Online clothing disputes
On November 1st, comic blogger @old first posted a group of pictures on social media "Ancient style mashup" comics. Immediately, some foreign netizens questioned, "The hats and clothes in the picture are all Korean."
Also at the beginning of this month, after the Korean server of the game "Shining Nuan Nuan" was launched, a set of suits announced triggered discussions due to the dispute between "Hanfu" and "Korean Server". After the game removed the controversial set from the shelves, some accounts repeatedly made radical remarks related to "insulting China." Eventually, the game shut down its operating services in South Korea.
Screenshots from Weibo
A few days ago, actor Xu Kai showed off his costume image in the new drama "Shang Shi" on social media, but was questioned by netizens as being like a "Korean costume TV series." Recently, Yu Zheng, the producer of the show, responded that "this proper Ming Dynasty Hanfu" was "called 'Hanfu' by uneducated people."
So, why do these ancient costumes cause controversy? And why does the conflict between “Hanfu” and “Hanfu” arise?debate?
Let’s start with the big hat
This actually starts with the big black hat.
The main reason why some people think that the paintings or photos are ancient costumes from the Korean Peninsula is mainly because of this hat.
Many images in North and South Korean costume dramas wear similar hats. This makes many people think that similar hats may be traditional costumes of the Korean Peninsula.
The image of the Korean people in the "Three Talents Picture Society" of the Ming Dynasty.
So, how did the hat appear in the official uniform system of the Korean Peninsula?
We can find the answer from the "History of Goryeo" written by Zheng Linzhi during the Lee Dynasty.
Book and movie of "History of Goryeo".
It is clearly recorded that "from the Eastern Kingdom, the ritual clothing of the Three Han Dynasties followed the local customs, and when King Taizong of Silla invited Tang Yi to adopt it, the system of the crown and uniform was slightly modeled on that of China."
During the period of Yizong of Goryeo Dynasty, only the "Tang system" was adopted, including the crown uniforms of the king and hundreds of officials. "Since the Yuan Dynasty, it has been almost a hundred years since people began to wear Hu clothes with shaved braids and braided hair." By the Ming Dynasty, "the clothes, crowns and cultural relics were completely new, and they were as elegant as ancient times."
It can be seen from this historical data that the changes in the Korean peninsula's ancient crown uniforms are closely related to the changes in China's dynasties and its attitude towards China. Hats are no exception.
Goryeo’s shaving and changing clothes
When the hat became the official uniform of the Korean Peninsula, it has to do with the dynasty changes in the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties.related to changes in the political situation.
This change began during the reign of King Chungryeol of Goryeo.
In the 13th century, the increasingly powerful Mongolia gradually came into contact with Goryeo. In 1231 AD, Mongolia began to use troops against Goryeo. From then until 1259, the two sides continued to fight.
In 1259 AD, Mongolia and Goryeo reached reconciliation. At that time, the crown prince of Goryeo went to Mongolia to meet Kublai Khan. After the king came to the throne, it was Goryeo Wonjong, and his son King Chungryeol Wangmin later became the first Goryeo king to marry a Mongolian princess.
Data map: The bronze statue of Kublai Khan in the ruins of Shangdu in the Yuan Dynasty. Photo by Liu Wenhua
It was against this background that after Wang Min ascended the throne and became the King of Goryeo, he began to promote shaving and changing clothes on the Korean Peninsula.
The "History of Goryeo" records that when King Chungryeol was on the throne, he "ordered everyone in the territory to wear national clothes and shave." In other words, the hairstyle and clothes all refer to the dressing of the Mongolians in the Yuan Dynasty at that time. The official uniforms of the Yuan Dynasty, which already had various types of hats, naturally affected the Korean Peninsula.
In the sixth year of King Gongmin of Goryeo (AD 1357), historical records stated that all his civil and military officials wore "black robes and green hats." This shows that the hat has entered the Goryeo official uniform system.
Dong Jin, the clothing consultant of "National Treasure", pointed out in an interview with a reporter from China News Service that because Goryeo was worshiping the Mongolian Yuan Zhengshuo at that time, hats also appeared in their official uniforms. Such hats gradually developed into the ancient black hats seen in Korean and Korean movies and TV dramas in the later history.
Stills from the Korean historical drama "Six Flying Dragons", which takes the end of the Goryeo Dynasty and the founding of the Lee Dynasty as the historical background.
The changes and changes in clothing during the Yuan, Ming and Yi dynasties
In the 16th year of King Gongmin of Goryeo (1367 AD), Goryeo promulgated regulations at all levels Detailed regulations on the color of hats worn by officials and the jewelry on top of the hats.
It is worth mentioning that this year was the twenty-seventh year of the Yuan Dynasty, when China was at the end of the Yuan Dynasty. The following year, in 1368 AD, Zhu Yuanzhang proclaimed himself emperor, changed the Yuan Dynasty to Hongwu, and captured Dadu (today's Beijing). The Yuan Dynasty's rule in the Central Plains was basically ended.
In the context of the rise of the Ming Dynasty, King Gongmin of Goryeo's new regulations on official clothing were actually "retro measures" taken at the request of ministers, which had a clear tendency to weaken the influence of the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty. .
From today's perspective, this "retroduction" is not complete: although Goryeo officials have grown their hair again since King Gongmin, traces of the Mongolian Yuan Dynasty are still left in the official uniforms.
It is obvious that the top of the hat at that time was decorated with jewelry, which is obviously a continuation of the historical customs of the nomadic people in northern China.
As the Yuan and Ming dynasties changed, Chinese official uniforms also underwent corresponding changes. After Zhu Yuanzhang established the Ming Dynasty, he tried to eliminate the influence of the Mongolian clothing system of the Yuan Dynasty and "reproduced the clothing and hats as if they were made in the Tang Dynasty."
However, judging from the subsequent historical development, this requirement has not been truly implemented. Not only did the official uniforms of the Ming Dynasty develop its own characteristic "buzi", but it is also difficult to eliminate all the clothing characteristics of the previous dynasties.
The big hat in the Ming Dynasty's "Three Talents".
Take the big hat as an example. This type of clothing originated from the northern nomads is still reflected in the "Sancai Tuhui" written during the Wanli period of the Ming Dynasty.
Dong Jin told reporters that although officials also wore big hats in the early Ming Dynasty, they later became mainly attire to mark their status, such as supervising students and promoting candidates. In addition, big hats were also used for riding horses and traveling because of their functions. The use of hat accessories in the Ming Dynasty was smaller and smaller than that in the Yuan Dynasty; the hat beads below were completely canceled during the Yingzong period of the Ming Dynasty.
The Palace Museum collects "Zhu Zhanji's Pleasure Picture", with Zhu Zhanji in the center. The painting depicts Zhu Zhanji, Emperor Xuanzong of the Ming Dynasty, wearing casual clothes and a brimmed hat, watching various sports performances in the imperial garden. Screenshot of the official website of the Palace Museum
"Inheriting the Ming Dynasty's clothes" and the Ming Dynasty's attitude
After Emperor Yuan Shun fled north, the Ming Dynasty's influence on surrounding countries further increased big.
The Ming Dynasty’s conquest of the Korean Peninsula also began at this time. At the beginning of the founding of the Ming Dynasty, Zhu Yuanzhang gave him crown clothes, sacrificial clothes, elegant gauze, brocade velvet and other items. Under the vassal system at that time, conferring favors was an important item in the diplomatic activities of the two countries.
Li Chenggui, who later replaced Goryeo and established the Lee Dynasty of Korea, even put forward the slogan of "inheriting Ming Dynasty clothes and banning Hu clothes" in Korea.
These practices undoubtedly played an important role in the evolution of crown uniforms on the Korean Peninsula.
Stills from the Korean historical drama "Dae Jang Geum", the story is set in the Lee Dynasty's Joseon period.
However, historically, Zhu Yuanzhang did not seem to be enthusiastic about this proposal on the Korean Peninsula.
According to historical records, the Goryeo envoy Changshou once said to Zhu Yuanzhang, "My country went to court twice for clothing matters, but was not allowed." After that, only the civilian clothes have not changed from the old ones. Although the officials wear hats, the common people wear the hats that were worn in the original dynasty. "
It is obvious that they are not stable. Goryeo, which had established ties with the Ming Dynasty, was already changing its Ming Dynasty clothes, but its casual clothes were still the same as those of the previous dynasty.
Portrait of Zhu Yuanzhang. Source: Screenshot of the paper "Discussing the Mystery of Zhu Yuanzhang's Portrait"
Zhu Yuanzhang's attitude towards this was very open -
According to the "History of Goryeo", he said to the Goryeo envoy longevity: "This is not harmful. King Wuling of Zhao is dressed in a barbaric uniform, riding and shooting, which will not harm him as a virtuous king. At first, I only had to bring my hat as before, but I thought about it later: I drove him out, but China followed suit. His appearance became unsightly for a long time, so he changed it. Nowadays, he is indispensable for wearing hats to protect him from the sun and wind and rain. King Boyan Timur sometimes wears court clothes and sacrificial robes. If you want to do things like this, you can just wear the gauze hat of the official, and the common people can wear the turban, why should I just talk about it?"
"What generation should I follow? ""
Hundreds of years after the conversation between the Korean envoy and Zhu Yuanzhang, in the 30th year of Qianlong (1765 AD), the 35-year-old Hong Darong went out with the Korean envoy Make the Qing Dynasty.
On this day, he dressed up to pay homage to the Qing Emperor. When he walked out of the Meridian Gate, he attracted many people to watch. The reason lies in Hong Darong's clothes.
The formal uniforms worn by the North Korean mission at that time were actually the "Ming Dynasty uniforms" they inherited from that year. But in the 30th year of Qianlong's reign, scholars in the Qing Dynasty seemed to no longer recognize such clothing. Some people from the Qing Dynasty even asked, "Which generation did your clothes follow?"
In the end, it was Hong Darong who told the Qing Dynasty people, "Our clothes are all legacy from the Ming Dynasty."
Poster of the Korean movie "Namhansanseong". The background of the story is the Qing Dynasty's war against Lee's Korea, which was called the "Bingzi Rebellion" in the history of the Korean Peninsula. The characters in it can be seen in the costumes of the Korean Peninsula during the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Back to the question at the beginning of the article.
Today, it is actually difficult for us to use simple words like "Hanfu" or "Hanfu" to define the costumes of a certain period in history.
Time does blur memories, but the history that has happened will not change with the passage of time. (End)
Reference materials:
"History of Goryeo", "Sancai Tuhui", "History of Chinese Clothing", "Ancient Chinese Public Clothing Series", "Where Are Ming Dynasty Clothes Today", "Goryeo" The dispute between the "Chinese" and "local customs" of the dynasty" "Yuanli's "uncle-nephew kindness" and the cultural exchange of costumes" "Clothes and Identity: A preliminary study on the process of adopting "Ming Dynasty clothes and crowns" on the Korean Peninsula in the early Ming Dynasty" "Contrasts between Tang and Song Dynasty Costumes" The Influence of the Costume System in the Early Period of Goryeo" "A Strip of Foreign Costumes - A Look at Clothing Diplomacy between the Ming Dynasty and North Korea from the Clothing Diplomacy Between the Ming Dynasty and North Korea from the Record of the Ming Dynasty" "The "Little China Pavilion" of Goryeo Envoys and the Origin of North Korea's "Little China" Consciousness"
Source: China News Network