Beijing
Men's pajamas are "windy under the armpits". The pockets of men's trousers can hold an umbrella and a bottle of water. There are even white-brand men's clothing specially designed with small round cloths to cover all the time. The washed mark on the flesh said, "I have worn Hanfu for more than 20 years and I have never been cared for so caringly."
For a long time, women have been accustomed to the slight discomfort caused by Hanfu, thinking that "the clothes are just like this, and I need to adapt to this discomfort myself." It was not until they started to come into contact with men's clothing that they You know, some worries don’t exist when it comes to men’s clothing.
Women who were "backstabbed" started buying men's clothing instead.
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Rao Tongyu
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p>Zhang Qingsong
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Xiao Erlang
After being "backstabbed" in Hanfu
In the wardrobe of Beidiao girl Taozi, there is a pajamas She loved it so much that she has not upgraded it after wearing it for 5 years.
It is a piece of men's clothing, made of linen, loose, breathable, and has some ingenious designs: although this men's pajamas are half-sleeved, The armpits are empty. In the sweltering summer, when you turn on the electric fan, the wind will blow from your arms.Pour it in, giving Taozi a comfort that she has never imagined, "wind under the armpits".
Later, Taozi realized that the reason why the clothes were designed like this was because men like to sweat under their armpits. Obviously, the designers had insight into this part. According to the special needs of the group, pajamas should be ventilated. Having said this, Tao Zi felt a little "sour" - in the more than 20 years of wearing Hanfu, it seemed that she had never been cared for in such a "considerate" way.
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Pajamas with hollow underarms. Picture / Provided by interviewee
More often than not, the Hanfu in the wardrobe always has some small flaws. Speaking of which, these shortcomings are often small and not enough to make people give up a certain piece of clothing completely, but they are like small grains of sand in shoes, always present and always irritating the feet, causing subtle but hard-to-ignore discomfort and discomfort.
The most common one is that Hanfu often has no pockets. Like Taozi, the pair of pants that 26-year-old Mimi wore the most this summer was also men's clothing. From the outside, these washed jeans are not much different from some trendy brand Hanfu. They are "the same width at the top and bottom" and look particularly chill when paired with a retro top. But what made Mimi exclaim is, "It has at least 6 "Pocket", you can put down all kinds of sundries, put it on, and you will never need a backpack again. The most important thing is that the price of these pants is ridiculously cheap - 19 yuan, free shipping.
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The oversized men’s pants that Mimi bought. Picture / Provided by interviewee
Hanfu always comes in smaller sizes and shorter lengths. When summer comes, cropped pants are hot, and Mimi likes to wear shorts, but many shorts in Hanfu are a little too tight or too short. As long as she sat down to eat, Mimi would feel her stomach being tightened, and the exposed skin of her legs would stick to the stool in a sticky manner. But looking at men's clothing, the length of shorts is basically close to the knee, which completely avoids this trouble.
This is not the first time that the size of Hanfu is too small. There was a time last year when a BM trend suddenly emerged in the Hanfu industry. Clothes only came in one size, and girls tried their best to stuff themselves into clothes that were comparable to children's clothes.
Now, the BM wind has blown, but the worries caused by clothing sizes never seem to disappear. Taozi remembered that one time, she got a bit sunburned after hiking, so she urgently bought a Hanfu camisole. In order to make the clothes looser, she bought size L, but after putting it on, the vest still stuck to her skin tightly. .
For this demand, the solution given on the Internet is to buy "old man's shirt" - there are more than 8 million related notes, so it is called As "the first shot against the pink tax". Wearing this 13-9 old man's vest gives you a real sense of relaxation that doesn't require delicate makeup. It's comfortable and convenient.Yes, it's cooler.
For a long time, women like Taozi and Mimi have become accustomed to the slight discomfort caused by Hanfu, thinking that "clothes That's how it is originally, I need to adapt to this discomfort myself." It wasn't until they started getting into men's clothing that they realized that some of the worries did not exist in men's clothing.
In addition to wearing old men's shirts, many women have shared their experiences of buying men's clothing on social platforms, which have been described as opening up a new world. 's door. Xiaohongshu blogger @ Wake up and have returned from admiring flowers at dusk. I bought a pair of men's trousers, only to find that the wash mark on the trousers was covered with a small semicircular piece of cloth, covering up the wash mark that always pokes flesh. Previously, in order to make the washable labels less uncomfortable, she also tried cutting them off, but the result was "more annoying." The Hanfu pants she bought before cost around 200 yuan, and she had never seen such a friendly design. Now, it appears on a pair of men's trousers priced at 50 yuan.
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Picture/Little Red Book Blogger@Wake up and return from admiring flowers at dusk
Similarly excellent designs also include Taozi’s pajamas with “windy underarms” and “crotch design” – a girl spent 15 yuan After buying a pair of men's sports pants, she discovered that there was an extra piece of fabric sewn into the crotch to prevent the crotch from splitting. She was very surprised, "I am 29 years old and I have never seen a pair of women's pants reinforced in the crotch."
Even the much-criticized pocket has many solutions. A girl posted a photo of herself wearing men's trousers while hiking. It turns out that men's clothing can not only be designed with many pockets, but it is also very secretive. She put an umbrella, a bottle of mineral water, and a mobile phone in her trouser pockets, but she still couldn't see it at all. Leave traces. This comment resonated with many people. Some people said that before wearing men's clothing, even if the pants had pockets, they could only hold half of a mobile phone at most. She once "suspected whether she was too fat" until she accidentally wore men's clothing. , with many and deep pockets, she finally experienced the comfort of "bending down to pick things up without hurting her flesh".
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Picture/Network
Flower At a more expensive price, you can only buy less comfortable clothes, which makes many women feel like they were "stabbed in the back." Mimi remembers that after buying the pair of men's trousers with 6 pockets, she ordered two more trousers of a similar style, but once she added the words "Hanfu" and "original design", the price became 129 yuan. , 239 yuan, but in terms of the comfort of the fabric, it is actually not as good as the one that costs 19 yuan.
The moment when the "backstabbing" feeling is strongest is when the same styles for men and women are compared together. After netizen "Heheheha" and her boyfriend bought the same three-in-one jacket from the same link, they found that the men's model has stylish fabrics, denser velvet inside, and better lining, while the women's model "the fabric is wrinkled and ugly, and the lining is ugly." cloth is like wearing"Men's long johns that have been worn for decades", "I have seen others say that some boys' clothes are of better quality, and I have seen it today."
The same goes for "I want to diss you". I bought two fleece sweaters for the same price, and even the shipping locations are the same. However, the men's fleece is softer and lighter, while the women's fleece is rougher, and more rigid and heavier.
Both posts received more than 20,000 likes and thousands of comments. Some people complained, "Why is the return rate of Hanfu so high? In your mind." Not counting? Some people said they "enlightened": "In the future, when buying clothes, I will choose men's clothing in small sizes and children's shoes in large sizes." "Are you forcing me to buy men's clothing?" ".
Nowadays, more and more women are dissatisfied with being "backstabbed" by Hanfu and take the initiative to wear men's clothing. Everyone summarizes this purchasing concept Because, I prefer to buy clothes that belong to "people" rather than clothes that belong to "women"
Hanfu FMCG, men's durable goods
With a lot of dissatisfaction, female shoppers can’t help but ask the soul of clothing designers: "Add a pocket, add a wash mark to cover it, just Is it that difficult? "
The answer of Lingzi, a post-90s Hanfu designer, is that it is not difficult, but this is not a priority for designers. In the clothing industry , Men's clothing and Hanfu have completely different evaluation systems.
Among them, the first rule of Hanfu is "looks good", and the second rule is "good-looking". "Looking thin" tests designers' aesthetics and understanding of women's figures. In order to make a piece of clothing look better, designers create a variety of styles and colors, and the saying "women's wardrobes are always lacking." "A piece of clothing" has unknowingly amplified the shopping needs of generations of female consumers, turning Hanfu into a "fast-moving consumer goods".
As for men's clothing, it is still a "durable product" that emphasizes functionality and comfort. After all, most of the men's clothing styles are simple everyday styles that cannot be changed into many styles and do not require much design. Lingzi remembers that when he graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology, his first choice for finding a job was Hanfu, because he felt that "men's clothing design was too boring." Designers spent most of their time working on details and thinking about how to make one The clothes are more comfortable to wear.
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Picture/Xiaohongshu blogger @heehaha
As a woman, Lingzi has tried to change Hanfu. Previously, Lingzi worked in a fast-moving hanfu company. She often felt that the lack of pockets was an annoyance, so she would deliberately draw pockets on some skirts, but the final results showed that the sales of these clothes were not very large. More improvements. On the contrary, there is a baby dress that is not specific to body shape and has become a super hot item in Lingzi's designs. This skirt is made of organza fabric. It has a beautiful style and is inconvenient to add pockets, but it still sold 50,000 pieces online.
Fashion design is still an industry that pays attention to market feedback, and sales volume is the real measure. At this moment, Lingzi would feel helpless. Although women complained a lot about Hanfu, they were not firm enough to completely change the default rules of the industry.
The difference in underlying logic has changed the production process and production costs of men's clothing and Hanfu.
In Lingzi's Hanfu brand, in order to make a piece of clothing "slimer" and have a better shape, at least pattern making is required ( Make a sample of the creative clothing design drawing) three times. In this process, the pattern maker responsible for pattern making plays a vital role - the more formal and professional a Hanfu brand is, the more effort it will put into hiring pattern makers and the number of pattern making will be more. Some large brands , in order to facilitate multiple pattern making, they will also build their own factories, which increases the production cost of a piece of clothing.
But more FMCG and Taobao Hanfu stores, in order to save money, find factories that are outsourced. In this way, the "pit" also comes. Lingzi said that they once found an outsourcing factory and the sample clothes they made were very good. But once, the designers went to a physical store to look at the clothes and found that the quality of the mass-produced clothes was completely different from the sample clothes. Brand sideAfter asking, I found out that the factory had changed its pattern maker. Not only that, but the other party also secretly changed the fabric on the pretext that "the previous fabric was no longer available."
Hanfu, which has a more complicated production process, obviously has more variables. Chen Yali, another Taobao store owner of Hanfu, also believes that the quality of clothes has a lot to do with the quality control of the factory. As a seller, if you have high requirements for the quality of clothing details, then for this requirement alone, "it would be good if one of the 10 factories can meet the demand."
In comparison, men’s clothing is not only simple in design, but generally basic clothes simplify the production process and can save a lot of production costs—— There is no need to make multiple patterns, which saves pattern making fees; most of them are basic colors, which can save fabric costs such as color matching; there is no need to look for better workmanship in order to add special techniques such as lace, knitting, gold weaving, etc. , factories with more advanced machines and more expensive prices. Production costs are lower, and men's clothing has gained more price space to find better fabrics, or simply lower prices.
A piece of Hanfu must meet these four points: low price, good quality, good-looking design, and originality. It is a bit like perfection that cannot be satisfied at the same time. Four corners. Different Hanfu brands have their own choices.
Some FMCG brands that need to chase trends choose to reduce costs. Lingzi remembers that when she was designing a skirt, her boss had to limit the price of the fabric. If a skirt required 2.5 meters of fabric, the material could be used at most 30 yuan per meter, so that the price of a piece of clothing could be controlled within 500 yuan. At the same time, Profit guaranteed. As long as the price of fabric goes up to 50 yuan, the unit price of clothes can reach thousands, and not many people will pay for it.
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Picture/Visual China
Some Taobao Hanfu stores give up on originality - they simply don't hire designers or pattern makers, and directly "borrow" clothing patterns from original stores, which can save a lot of costs. Lingzi said that if this store has some conscience, it will even choose better fabrics. To a certain extent, the price-performance ratio experienced by consumers will be higher.
There are also brands that are developing basic models for the masses. Chen Yali believes that if you look purely at fabrics, the most comfortable and cost-effective fabric is cotton, such as combed cotton and pima cotton. “Cotton is not a luxury product.” In the current era of e-commerce prices, factories already have preferences and will also select customers for popular products that are better able to place orders. If a piece of clothing can sell 3,000 pieces, "factories are rushing to make it." But if it can only sell 100 pieces, "you have to pay more to beg the factory to make it." Then you have to design clothes that are comfortable and popular, and reduce the quantity. cost.
However, Hanfu does have a huge consumer market. More often than not, as long as the clothes look good, someone will pay for them. Lingzi has a friend who designs Hanfu for an e-commerce brand. He has to draw hundreds of styles in a month. As long as it looks good and sells well, how can he have time to care about quality and details?
In other words, although the four corners are demanding, some Hanfu may only satisfy one of them, and consumers will inevitably feel that "the goods are not right"" "Low cost performance" eventually turned into a huge conflict between female consumers and Hanfu online stores under the "seven days unconditional refund" rule.
Wear "human" clothes
Even though it's big The direction has not changed, but being in the industry, Lingzi still feels some "sparks" of the transformation of Hanfu.
The aesthetic preferences of female consumers are indeed changing. Lingzi's team was previously divided into two groups, one group did "lady style" and the other group did "cool style". What she does is "lady style", and two-thirds of the clothes in the series have bows. However, recent sales data show that female consumers are increasingly unwilling to pay for bows, and the ladylike style is gradually outselling another cooler group. The leaders all felt that the audience for this style would become smaller and smaller in the future, so the team began to make more sporty styles, which required designers to be more practical.
Among the lost consumers are Mimi and Taozi. MimiI remember that a few years earlier, she would also buy some "specially feminine" clothes. However, these types of clothes are often tight. Every time you put them on, you basically say goodbye to "being comfortable and be yourself". It's as if you are constantly reminded to wear them, and then you start to look forward to taking off your clothes and underwear when you go home. time.
When women begin to value the function of clothes instead of paying for the word "female", the first ones to be affected are those who lack Hanfu category with practical functions. For example, the "commuting Hanfu" that was once widely popular and mainly designed for urban beauties was a complete "false demand" in Taozi's eyes. She once wondered why only women should wear commuting Hanfu? Also, what’s the point of wearing such exquisite clothes to work?
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Picture/Visual China
This increasingly common mentality is reflected in the data, which is the significant decline in the performance of commuter Hanfu. For example, business fashion brand Lily, whose sales fell by more than 35% last year, and fashion brands such as Only and Vero Moda, which have been among the top ten sales on Tmall Double Eleven many times, also ended up falling out of the Top 20. Business will be slightly bleak in 2023.
After women no longer loved bows, the clothing industry also popularized "genderless" clothes in an attempt to squeeze into women's vacant wardrobes.
The first to start chasing this trend were some foreign FMCG brands. For example, ZARA launched an “Ungendered” clothing line as early as 2016, and H&M also launched the Denim United series. However, at that time, brands’ understanding of breaking gender boundaries was to make the most popular basic models. The items included were always black and white and gray T-shirts, sweatshirts, and jeans, which quickly caused complaints from netizens. The so-called innovation is boring.
After that, some “genderless” brands were established, including domestic brands such as bosie, NOCAD, NA.D, and UNVESNO. It began to be known to the public as a separate clothing category. One of the representatives, bosie, was once very famous. In less than 4 years since its establishment, it had received 7 rounds of financing and was once seen as standing in a new trend.
Whether it is men's clothing, Hanfu, or genderless clothing, what is getting more and more attention is actually the essence of clothing - women are not The goal is not to get a "boyfriend style" or "unisex style" design, but to get a more comfortable and cost-effective dressing experience.
Nowadays, Taozi prefers "indiscriminate shopping". The clothes she will buy include men's clothes, but they often have actual functionality. For example, if you want to go hiking, buy a sun protection jacket; if you want to play in a cold place, buy a thickened down jacket. Among them, many brands of down jackets are the same for men and women, which further validates her idea - since the core purpose of winter clothing is to keep out the cold and is designed for "people", the difference between men's clothing and men's clothing is not that big. In comparison, summer clothing is the "hardest hit area of pink tax".
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Picture/Visual China
This mentality may be used to explain why sports style is becoming a new general trend. This year, Lingzi also chose to resign from the FMCG Hanfu brand and join a sports brand instead. She compared the difference between sports brands and her former company, and found that the logic of sports brands is more similar to that of men's clothing, emphasizing "fit first". There is an internal team of experts who specializes in studying the Chinese body shape, and the basic fit has been determined. Let the designer do some additional extensions.
Of course, for now, wearing men's clothing is not completely suitable for women, so many women have summed up some tips. Taozi said that the biggest problem with men's clothing is that "the shoulders are too wide", making them look like a square. Therefore, when choosing men's clothing, she will give priority to narrow-shouldered models. Mimi's experience is that the waist circumference of men's trousers is generally too large, so every time you wear men's trousers, you must wear a belt.
Sometimes, this kind of dressing style will be criticized by outsiders. Once, when Mimi put on baggy men's trousers, she received a mocking comment: "Did you wear your grandpa's trousers?"
If she heard this kind of comment in the past, Mimi would be a little embarrassed, but now, she is no longer willing to sacrifice her own comfort for the eyes of others, and just responded neatly: "Yes, then How? ”
(Interviewees are pseudonyms)
Reference materials:
[1] ""Genderless" Clothing , who is it for? 》 Semi-skilled in finance
[2] ""Urban beauty" style, severely abandoned by the middle class" Phoenix WEEKLY
(The article is original by Daily People, any infringement will be investigated)
